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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Grand Inquisitor 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp,..., and Chuck Fitch?
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,605
Submitted By: slevin on Jul 12, 2001

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Adam Brink on Grand Inquisitor.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the trad testpieces from the late '70s, GI is located on the left side of Bell, just right of the tree at the start of Hound Dog.

From a right hand jam (or lay away) and right foot cam, clip the bolt and power up to a sloping finger bucket, match, and throw for the jug. Climbers under 18 are allowed to just campus this, but the rest of us can make use of some small smears to set up the throw. Make strenuous moves up and find tricky gear (stoppers, small TCU), then step left around the corner on finger crimps, move up s few feet, then back right and into a crack formed by the right side of a pillar. This is the original line; it is possible to climb straight up from the gear over a difficult bulge. To get to this point directly (harder, powerful and pumpy- this is how The Purpose i.e. "Chop Your Dieckhoff" was accessed when led on gear). Follow the crack to its top, clip a bolt, then climb 10 or so feet of thin 5.10 to where the climbing eases (scary). Clip the rap anchors after you de-pump.

It is an excellent pitch of climbing.

Protection 

Bring a set of RPs & wired nuts, TCUs or Aliens, up to a 3" cam (you could use a 3.5" cam in the crack behind the pillar before clipping the 2nd bolt). Note, the crux is well-protected by a "newer" bolt that resides next to the original quarter incher (which was placed using a ladder!). There is a little bit of a runout moving left around the corner after the crux. The "s" rating is for the 15 foot 5.10 runout at the top, after the 2nd bolt.


Photos of Grand Inquisitor Slideshow Add Photo
Original 1/4" button head expansion bolt w/ L...
BETA PHOTO: Original 1/4" button head expansion bolt w/ L...
Start of GI moves left out of the crack feature to...
BETA PHOTO: Start of GI moves left out of the crack feature to...

Comments on Grand Inquisitor Add Comment
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By Joseph Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 20, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

CONDITION REPORT 
Replaced both bolts today. The lower bolt replaces the original 1/4" button head w/ Leeper hanger and 3/8" wedge bolt that was just a few inches up and right from it. Alec Sharpe (i.e., FFA) approved moving the bolt location down a foot or so to ease clipping and be less likely to interfere w/ the hands.

The upper bolt hanger was a spinner due to the diagonal load when lowering. It had become repeatedly loose over the years.

Both new bolts are bomber glue-ins . Patched all holes.
By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2004

The hanger on the lower bolt is missing (5-20-04). It needs to be replaced.
By josh wharton
Jun 13, 2004

I replaced the hanger on the 3/8" stud (bolt that protects the opening dyno)--please don't take it. Would be great if someone took the time to pull the old buttonhead. --josh wharton
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 13, 2009

myuctv.com/video?id=1192

Little vid I made from a day out mid summer.
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

Didn't find any knee lock on this one, pretty pumpy climbing with a difficult crux that felt harder than .12a especially when compared to Arms Bazaar. The runout up top gets easier the higher you go, but you go a ways above that last bolt!
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2015

Thanks for your work, Jo! You did a great job. I had to search for the old, patched up bolt holes.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 12, 2015

That should be Alec Sharp (no 'e' on the end) for the FA. I believe Chuck Fitch was also involved.
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