Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Alec Sharp,..., and Chuck Fitch?
Page Views: 5,326 total · 19/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Jul 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of the trad testpieces from the late '70s, GI is located on the left side of Bell, just right of the tree at the start of Hound Dog.

From a right hand jam (or lay away) and right foot cam, clip the bolt and power up to a sloping finger bucket, match, and throw for the jug. Climbers under 18 are allowed to just campus this, but the rest of us can make use of some small smears to set up the throw. Make strenuous moves up and find tricky gear (stoppers, small TCU), then step left around the corner on finger crimps, move up a few feet, then back right and into a crack formed by the right side of a pillar. This is the original line; it is possible to climb straight up from the gear over a difficult bulge. To get to this point directly (harder, powerful and pumpy- this is how The Purpose was accessed when led on gear). Follow the crack to its top, clip a bolt, then climb 10 or so feet of thin 5.10 to where the climbing eases (a run).

It is an excellent pitch of climbing.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a set of RPs & wired nuts, TCUs or Aliens, up to a 3" cam (you could use a 3.5" cam in the crack behind the pillar before clipping the 2nd bolt). Note, the crux is well-protected by a "newer" bolt that resides next to the original quarter incher (which was placed using a ladder!). There is a little bit of a runout moving left around the corner after the crux. The "s" rating is for the 15 foot 5.10 runout at the top, after the 2nd bolt.

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