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 ADVANCED
Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Grand Illusion 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ???
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,448
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on May 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Burt Linquist sets up for the crux, as Jerry and B...

Description 

In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.
This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).
The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via locks and a throw to sharp jugs (all after hang'n out below it and placing gear). If you fall - no problem- it is pure air.


Location 

Approximately at left end of Prospect Point Rampart wall proper. Variation start from base is right of Big Toe formation.


Protection 

All bomber natural chocks (big wires), tricams, and cams.



Photos of Grand Illusion Slideshow Add Photo
Jerry Wingenter leads Grand Illusion via the 5.10b variation start.  This is a great route and a great start to it. <br />Takes gear very well as you can sort of see in this photo (nice splitter coming out of his head).  Take a few Ball Nuts with you.  You can just see the crux section of the upper part of Grand Illusion in the upper left of photo.
Jerry Wingenter leads Grand Illusion via the 5.10b...
The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b variation start shown.  It climbs up a crack not quit visible in the shadows lower right and scums over and past a point via a 5.10b mantle type move.  The upper crack and steep crux of Grand Illusion can be seen upper left in the photo as well but somewhat ill defined in this photo due to the angle of the shot and small shadows.
BETA PHOTO: The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b vari...
Jerry Wingenter leading Grand Illusion via the 5.10b variation start.  Here, he is past the crux of the variation and stemming his way up the very nice middle section and almost to the start of Grand Illusion proper.
Jerry Wingenter leading Grand Illusion via the 5.1...
Rhoads does the Grand Illusion Double Direct variation. Hefty run-out included.
Rhoads does the Grand Illusion Double Direct varia...
Comments on Grand Illusion Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think I did some sort of "Double Direct" today. I pulled the corner with the thin crack (5.10-) and then instead of taking the obvious right hand crack I traversed left on some good pockets in a horizontal to a series on mantles (5.9+) directly up to the overhang. It was X rated that way with no pro on the traverse and through the mantles.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 21, 2010

TR'd that variation with Doug once and it is good. We climbed directly up from below avoiding the 10- crack variation all together.
Leave it up to you Nick to seek this out while on the lead.... no gear in that middle section....

By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012

Ok. Make it triple-direct. Start with V2 move on slab left of direct start, then go up slab to overhanging finish. Almost as much fun as Sandy Wegener's deviant version of Brinton's.