|Big Toe to Great Chimney
In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.
This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).
The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via locks and a throw to sharp jugs (all after hang'n out below it and placing gear). If you fall - no problem- it is pure air.
Approximately at left end of Prospect Point Rampart wall proper. Variation start from base is right of Big Toe formation.
All bomber natural chocks (big wires), tricams, and cams.
Jerry Wingenter leads Grand Illusion via the 5.10b...
BETA PHOTO: The route Grand Illusion with the lower 5.10b vari...
Jerry Wingenter leading Grand Illusion via the 5.1...
Rhoads does the Grand Illusion Double Direct varia...
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I think I did some sort of "Double Direct" today. I pulled the corner with the thin crack (5.10-) and then instead of taking the obvious right hand crack I traversed left on some good pockets in a horizontal to a series on mantles (5.9+) directly up to the overhang. It was X rated that way with no pro on the traverse and through the mantles.
|By Burt Lindquist|
From: Madison, WI
Sep 21, 2010
TR'd that variation with Doug once and it is good. We climbed directly up from below avoiding the 10- crack variation all together.
Leave it up to you Nick to seek this out while on the lead.... no gear in that middle section....
|By Erol Altay|
Oct 3, 2012
Ok. Make it triple-direct. Start with V2 move on slab left of direct start, then go up slab to overhanging finish. Almost as much fun as Sandy Wegener's deviant version of Brinton's.