|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 600'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1971|
|Submitted By:||nbrown on Nov 27, 2008|
|Comments on Grand Funk Railroad||Add Comment|
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From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
By light rack, it really means light rack. We ended up taking a bunch of gear that we never used for this climb. No gear placements on P1, P2, P3 (other than slung horns), P6. I think we got in one .4 on P4 and one #1 of P5. It's really not worth hauling a light rack -- maybe a couple of small cams at most. There were a couple of tri-cam pockets on the upper pitches, but of course we left these on the ground and substituted a bunch of useless nuts.
Careful on P3, there are some LARGE, loose flakes. Wouldn't want to send a 100-pound razor sharp flake down on your belayer.
The P1 traverse is pretty spicy, so make sure your belayer picks their path into the woods for a running belay.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011
Choo Choo, its Grand Funk Railroad calling your name!!! Beautiful feature trends left across a huge swath of the cliff face so you get a taste of a lot of different terrain. Great sticky rubber slabbing, some vertical featured climbing as well as some killer water groove climbing.Pretty much bring draws, slings (for some gnarly chicken heads) and a couple small cams and tricams for the loftier pitches, keep it minimalistic though it doesn't take much.
Don't forget to bring tons of water on this climb and perhaps a snack or two because this route is a drawn out affair.