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Stone Mountain South Face
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Unsorted Routes:

Grand Funk Railroad 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1971
Page Views: 4,641
Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 27, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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G-man following pitch 2 on a perfect fall day
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Description 

This is one of the most historic and classic routes at Stone Mountain. It was the first route to follow a "line" of a different sort. Instead of following a crack, it follows a dike feature that runs somewhere in the range of 600'.

P-1 Climb the face on good edges and smears to a bowl at the first bolt. Move right across a long slab traverse to the "railroad" dikes, and follow these past another bolt to the belay. Optional 5.10R/X climbs straight up past the first bolt.

P-2 Roughly follow the dike feature past two bolts to a weird traverse through a water streak to a good ledge and belay.

P-3 Friction a short ways to gain the dike again, and sling horns for pro. Continue up to a bolted belay on a small ledge.

P-4-6 Continue up the dike to the top. The last belay is located atop some large flakes.

Note: It is very reasonable to simulclimb the upper half of this route, or just combine pitches.


Location 

At right end of the main area, on top of a little knoll. The start is marked by a water streak and tiny flared crack/seams.


Protection 

Light rack



Photos of Grand Funk Railroad Slideshow Add Photo
1st pitch of Grand Funk Railroad.
1st pitch of Grand Funk Railroad.
Richard leads pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Richard leads pitch 2
Getting ready to follow the second pitch. Great features on the slab!
Getting ready to follow the second pitch. Great fe...
Leading the 3rd pitch
Leading the 3rd pitch
A pair of climbers finish P4 of Grand Funk Railroad, viewed from the Oasis.
A pair of climbers finish P4 of Grand Funk Railroa...
Tasty ledge
Tasty ledge
Comments on Grand Funk Railroad Add Comment
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By mbuntaine
From: Durham, NC
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

By light rack, it really means light rack. We ended up taking a bunch of gear that we never used for this climb. No gear placements on P1, P2, P3 (other than slung horns), P6. I think we got in one .4 on P4 and one #1 of P5. It's really not worth hauling a light rack -- maybe a couple of small cams at most. There were a couple of tri-cam pockets on the upper pitches, but of course we left these on the ground and substituted a bunch of useless nuts.

Careful on P3, there are some LARGE, loose flakes. Wouldn't want to send a 100-pound razor sharp flake down on your belayer.

The P1 traverse is pretty spicy, so make sure your belayer picks their path into the woods for a running belay.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Choo Choo, its Grand Funk Railroad calling your name!!! Beautiful feature trends left across a huge swath of the cliff face so you get a taste of a lot of different terrain. Great sticky rubber slabbing, some vertical featured climbing as well as some killer water groove climbing.Pretty much bring draws, slings (for some gnarly chicken heads) and a couple small cams and tricams for the loftier pitches, keep it minimalistic though it doesn't take much.

Don't forget to bring tons of water on this climb and perhaps a snack or two because this route is a drawn out affair.