Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Grand Finale 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eve Uiga, Herb Laeger
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: A Terray on Apr 1, 2012  with updates from Sandy Fleming

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start on the Alcoa Presents ledge. Move left of Orangeaid approximately 15 feet to a right facing flake and crack system. Climb the flake and crack, then trend slightly left up the face just before the end of the flake. Finally, head right on easy ground just below the summit to belay on a fixed chain anchor right (north) of the true summit." However - there are actually two ways to finish the pitch. Moving slightly left just before the flake ends (as described above) is easier and safer, and is what most people do to finish. Staying with the flake system, and moving up and right past the end of the flake offers harder climbing and NO gear until a short vertical slot for a bomber cam about 15 feet above the very end of the flake - borderline R rated.
This is indeed an Old School 5.9+ - we all know what that means! I agree that it really is every bit of 5.10b, and frankly even harder to hang around on and place gear on than Orangeaid.

Location 

10 feet left of Orangeaid, on the Alcoa Ledge.

Protection 

PG


Comments on Grand Finale Add Comment
Show which comments
By climbinbob
Sep 6, 2012

I seconded this route years ago, when it was rated 5.9. It's damn hard, although it does protect well. The HARDEST 9 I've ever climbed except for Conans Gonads at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado. But, maybe I was just spent from the long hike into Conans. If you're solid at the grade, go for it!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!