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 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
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Grand Finale 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eve Uiga, Herb Laeger
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: A Terray on Apr 1, 2012
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Description 

Start on the Alcoa ledge, 10 feet left of Orangeaid crack. Climb up shallow right facing corner and crack system. Trend left to exit left of the summit (shuts).
Barnes calls this 9+. I think this is one of those old school routes that just hasn't been done enough to up the grade. It is all of 10b, harder than castor/pollux and equivalent to orangeaid.


Location 

10 feet left of Orangeaid, on the Alcoa Ledge.


Protection 

PG



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By climbinbob
Sep 6, 2012

I seconded this route years ago, when it was rated 5.9. It's damn hard, although it does protect well. The HARDEST 9 I've ever climbed except for Conans Gonads at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado. But, maybe I was just spent from the long hike into Conans. If you're solid at the grade, go for it!