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Start on the Alcoa Presents ledge. Move left of Orangeaid approximately 15 feet to a right facing flake and crack system. Climb the flake and crack, then trend slightly left up the face just before the end of the flake. Finally, head right on easy ground just below the summit to belay on a fixed chain anchor right (north) of the true summit." However - there are actually two ways to finish the pitch. Moving slightly left just before the flake ends (as described above) is easier and safer, and is what most people do to finish. Staying with the flake system, and moving up and right past the end of the flake offers harder climbing and NO gear until a short vertical slot for a bomber cam about 15 feet above the very end of the flake - borderline R rated.
This is indeed an Old School 5.9+ - we all know what that means! I agree that it really is every bit of 5.10b, and frankly even harder to hang around on and place gear on than Orangeaid.
10 feet left of Orangeaid, on the Alcoa Ledge.
Sep 6, 2012
I seconded this route years ago, when it was rated 5.9. It's damn hard, although it does protect well. The HARDEST 9 I've ever climbed except for Conans Gonads at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado. But, maybe I was just spent from the long hike into Conans. If you're solid at the grade, go for it!