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Grand Delusion 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stegg, Jacobs, Fall 2012
Season: When dry
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: BHMBen on Nov 27, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Shannon at the base of the corner on Grand Delusio...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Slab climb up the initial apron passing two bolts to the ledge at the base of the corner. From here, the path is clear. Follow the beautiful, left-facing, arching crack for 100' passing great and plentiful gear and bolts where necessary.

Slab, laybacks, tricky stemming, an undercling flake, and great fingerlocks and handjams....a bit of it all with a face climbing crux at the end.

Stays interesting the whole way.


Location 

Left of Danger of Extinction, up the hill. Belay at base of slab below two bolts.


Protection 

One of everything + double blue TCU thru #1 camalot.



Photos of Grand Delusion Slideshow Add Photo
The Grand Delusion is located on the far left of Big Green
BETA PHOTO: The Grand Delusion is located on the far left of B...
Shannon Stegg on The Grand Delusion.
BETA PHOTO: Shannon Stegg on The Grand Delusion.
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By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Nov 27, 2012

This is a beautiful crack line...sustained, and well protected. Cleaned in 2011 by Shannon and Andrew's brother, then FA'd November 2012 by Shannon and Jody, the unearthed corner yields steep and aesthetic climbing over good protection.....odd for Big Green.

By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jun 23, 2013

I would agree with everything except that the Crux move has legitimate ledge fall concern with gear at your feet at the base of the ledge. Personally i'm not risking my ankle. I honestly think that to make this a true gem a bolt protecting this ledge fall should be considered.

Secondly the flake lower down needs to be trundled properly, i almost pulled it off just by looking at the damn thing let alone pulling on it. Disaster in the making if you yard on this flake hard.

Otherwise fun movement. Definitely doubles .75-1, and singles in other portions from the 75% of the route that i climbed before down climbing back to the first bolt.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Oct 30, 2013

We rapped down this to get off Joke The Chicken and counted a total of 4 bolts on the dihedral proper, in addition to the slab. I'd heard from people that had done it that there there were only a couple? Shannon, did you add some a few weekends ago when we saw you guys out there?