|East Gate Buttress
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This is like a meaner brother of Mexican crack. The climbs are similar as they offer traversing cracks. Gran Hermano, however is thinner, steeper, and more strenuous...excellent climbing.
Start at the 2nd pitch (main one) of the Flakes. Follow the first pitch for 25'. Take the right branching diagonal finger crack to a wide vertical crack. Follow this to the top
Standard rack of cams from a #0 TCU up to 4" cam
Nov 29, 2010
One of the few easy .11's around here and just as worthy as Tick Fever. However, this is a more straight forward finger crack than Tick Fever and without the huge rests. Its also more physical than El Segundo.
|By James Garrett|
Nov 30, 2010
I am so sorry, but you asked. The late great Dave Anderson was an incomparable crack master in the Wasatch during the 80's-90's (died in a Air Medical Rescue Helicopter crash after being injured in a Pink Pine avalanche). He never reported his routes (hence the "Name withheld by request of FA party" throughout the Desert Rock series) and probably climbed in the East Gate area more than anyone except our local "blond god" Drew Bedford. He used to do laps in the Flakes area and frequently climbed all the variations on all sides of a given chunk of rock. He was definitely in a league ahead of me, rarely drilled bolts on his own, and he wouldn't even name things unless I or others suggested. He will be forever missed. At any rate, he climbed those routes free and clean, but thought them so short and insignificant and most likely climbed by Wheels or Bedford, he didn't even think to report them...and back then, many things went unreported.
Nov 30, 2010
Awesome story James. I think that's one of the cool parts about mentioning routes like this. Take my name off for sure. The cleaning and grooming we did will only (hopefully) get others psyched about these classic lines. Who cares who did it first. What should it be named then?
One of the few finger cracks in the wasatch and one of a handful of easy .11 trad leads around here.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 14, 2011
It's easy to say that back in the day these would have been climbed as variations. But I think it's good to record them, give 'em a name and a grade. Proud cracks are in short supply. Good additions to the East Gate.
P.S. James, I hope you're doing well amigo!