|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Grama and the Green Suede Shoes||Add Comment|
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From: Los Angeles, CA
May 23, 2013
Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.
This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.
So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.
The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.
Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.
Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting!