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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1995
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009
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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes ascends the low-an...

Description 

Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).


Location 

Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's


Protection 

Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.



Photos of Grama and the Green Suede Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct after my n00b belayer took me off to untangle the rope. What a mistake that was. Jeez. Circa 2001.
Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct afte...
Comments on Grama and the Green Suede Shoes Add Comment
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By transattic
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 23, 2013

Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.

This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.

So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.

The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.

Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.

Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting!