|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Grama and the Green Suede Shoes||Add Comment|
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From: Los Angeles, CA
May 23, 2013
Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.
This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.
So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.
The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.
Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.
Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting!
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 7, 2016
|I only used a #3 and #5, the cruxy part is short. Do it in the afternoon shade, for obvious Potash reasons.|