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Grain Surgery Wall
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Grain Surgery 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Brian Rennie and John Long
Page Views: 2,013
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 18, 2003

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Grain Surgery starts in the middle (widest) crack ...

Description 

Steve Canyon is a well known windy day crag; this route (which faces west and is sunny most of the day) is a good bet when the "phoon" winds strike. This route is located on the upper of two west facing formations that constitute the east side of Steve Canyon. This is a fun, moderate face and crack route with decent protection.

Start up the farthest left major crack system; where it peters out, a bolt protects moves up and left to a horizontal. Above (crux) face climb past 1 more bolt to the summit (several variations exist).

A 2 bolt anchor is found on top, Either rappel or take the easy (Class 4) walk off (left) under the block.


Protection 

1 to 2 inch cams work pretty well to protect the crack and horizontal; 2 bolts.



Photos of Grain Surgery Slideshow Add Photo
Romain Wacziarg negotiates the final 20 feet of Grain Surgery, a 5.9+ exercise in friction.
Romain Wacziarg negotiates the final 20 feet of Gr...
Grain Surgery
Grain Surgery
Comments on Grain Surgery Add Comment
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By Murf
Jan 20, 2003

A fun route, and a pleasure to follow one of the FA's up 20 years later. Not sure the budding .10a leaders should be queueing for this one. But as with many JT routes "if you are solid at the grade..".

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 24, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A great mix of crack and face climbing on a clean face. Like Murf says, it helps to be solid at the grade as the upper face is a little sporty. Three stars out of five.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

Quality, varied climbing. Some nice crack at the bottom, a fun transition to friction climbing, and a nice technical crux at the bolt. The final run to the top is definitely sporty - there is a 5.9 move required about 10 feet above the bolt - so for me that was the "mental" crux.

By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
Feb 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

This climb is definitely about the mental crux which is 10' past the last bolt and one move from the top. From the last bolt, there is a 10b move right, probably 2 10a moves up, a 5.9 move about 10' beyond the bolt and then another 5.7+ move to top out. Really fun.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 10, 2010

Yeah that last bit surprised me - very scary.

By ericangusmd
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good outing. Guidebook gives it R rating - probably fair given the possibility of a 40 footer albeit steep enough to be clean.

By Richardo
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Took at 30 footer after the last bolt--super clean fall, really great protection up until the last bolt.