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Graham's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Graham Wilson, Tommy Taylor
Page Views: 2,153
Submitted By: BHMBen on Jul 15, 2009
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Grahams

Description 

Varying from tight hands to fists/offwidth and back to hands and fingers, with plentiful face holds and a slopey finish, Graham's is one of the many Steele classics.


Location 

Distinctive varying crack to the left of a large boulder and 15' right of Papillon.


Protection 

Trad gear to #3 Camalot. Bolted anchors. Bring big gear to sew up the crux if needed.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 28, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great splitter crack climbing! I'll admit my crack technique isn't the best, but the original 5.7 rating on this route is a real sandbag. The climbing is pretty sustained with little opportunity for rests (with the possible exception of a "thigh-jam" in the wide section). Also, some bigger gear in the #4-5 camalot range, while not mandatory, can increase your comfort level.

By Jason Watts
From: Boulder,CO
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

can climb with face holds/lieback, real crack technique needed to stay in the crack through the crux.

By Drew Hellams
From: High Point, NC
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Amazing crack with opportunities for hands, fists, fingers, and offwidth technique. Classic

By highneed
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It is hard to miss this beauty, nothing but interesting moves for the first 40ft. Really pumpy for a route this grade but then again I think I tried placing gear in the worse places.

By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Apr 18, 2013

try the route using crack only/jams only .....for an extra level of challenge

By Ralph Copp III
Jan 21, 2014

I don't no when Graham first climbing this route. I lead it in 1975 with a mix of nuts and pins.