Grafton Notch State Park - Ice & Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: RW one pitch below the top of the "central sl...
This park has 700+ foot composite granite rock cliff separated by narrow tree ledges on its west side, called the Eyebrow. This cliff is closed to climbing. On the east side of the Notch are slabs and a steeper cliff called Table Rock, because of the look out point on the A.T. I went to the top of the slabs south of Table Rock, and bushwhacked uphill north to meet up with the Appalachian Trail. I haven't been to this area since 1982. I remember there being no natural trad. pro. sections to these east side slabs. These slabs other than Table Rock are similar to Webster Mt.-Crawford Notch N.H. slabs or with few to no arches. To protect these slabs would require a dozen bolts or so, at least. Much of the rock is coarse. It has white and brown rock diagonal bands (possibly Basalt)and some gray,(Whitehorse Mt. N.H. in likeness) smooth slab sections also. Southeast of these slabs deep in the woods is another continuous slab 300+ feat, without tree ledges. I haven't been there. Besides bushwhacking in Maine is serious, if you get lost and become disoriented you can stay lost forever (having a compass could be life saving).
The Notch is beautiful and also offers a variety of winter ice climbing. 80+ feet of hollow thin ice on the west side and thick (WI3,3+) 40+ feet of ice on the east side of the Notch. The thick stuff is practically on the road and has lots of ways up it. The hollow ice section has no pro and is steeper. This section may get thicker depending on yearly conditions. google images has excellent images of the Eyebrow. There are images of the notch on the web.
Google Map Quest or buy a map of Maine. It is Northeast of Bethel, Maine on 26. Bethel Maine is 26 miles East of Gorham N.H. via Route2. The Notch proper is about 12 miles north of Route 2 on Rt 26.
There's much to do and see for the non-climber / non-hiker also; for example: Screw Auger Falls and the "Moose Cave".
The walk to the Eyebrow cliffs wasn't long, less than 1 mile from road's parking lot I believe.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 13.6 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Grafton Notch State Park - Ice &
: Grafton Notch State Park - ...
A series of 4 to 6 flows, WI 2+ to WI 3, that one can stumble to from the car in a few steps! One slightly more difficult (3+ / 4 ?) flow up higher in the woods.The flows are on the SouthEast side of the road (regardless of what it says in "Northern New England Ice Climbs"!) and they do get the afternoon sun. Hence these are the first Grafton Notch climbs to "bake-out / melt out"....[more] Browse More Classics in ME
|Comments on Grafton Notch State Park - Ice &
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
Eyebrow has some protected plant species ?