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Suicide Rock
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Graffiti Suicide T,TR 

Graffiti Suicide 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Daniel McDonald
New Route: Yes
Season: traditional
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: Dan McDonald on Jul 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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me and the route i took.

Description 

This is a nice 5.9 as there are some sketchy smooth areas towards the top, and a crack with some layback moves needed, which was the crux of the climb. not bad though.

Location 

The rock is easy to pick out, as it is the one with all of the graffiti. The west face is an easy scramble to the top. This route is on the east face.

Protection 

When I did it, there is a spot to sling a 30 ft webbing around the boulder at the top, and then a 15 ft webbing around the top of that boulder as a second anchor. It would be easy to set a few top anchors if people had the equipment.


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By nooky brown
Jul 4, 2011

Wow! I have checked out that line for years but just never had enough webbing.
By Brian in SLC
Jul 5, 2011

Wow, a three star, 65 foot Grade V 5.9 top rope, and, its by my home!

Maybe if I get an early enough start, I won't have to spend the night on it...
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 5, 2011

Brian, hit me up if you want to get the lead FA of this beast on gear. I live close and I have a portaledge... We can start shuttling loads today and go for it from advanced base camp over the weekend, there's a weather window.
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 5, 2011

I heard Alex Honnold is looking to solo this beast. Half Dome was just a warm up for this endeavor.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Jul 5, 2011

Do you think if I bolted this rock, it would take away from the fine graffiti art?
By paintrain
Jul 6, 2011

I have been thinking about doing my first Trad PG13 TR.

Would this be a good one to cut my teeth on? Is it recommended to wear fingerless gloves during traditional season?

PT
By Dan McDonald
From: sandy, ut
Jul 6, 2011

as long as the bolts are different colors you should be good:) man that would be sweet to see some bolts and anchors on this one. so close to everything!
By Dan McDonald
From: sandy, ut
Jul 6, 2011

next time i go, ill take pictures of my webbing job:)