Mountain Project Logo

Grade III climbs

Original Post
LawHous · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 481

So according to the YDS system a Grade III climb is one that takes half a day. Yet nowhere is there mentioned how many pitches, or more specifically how long, a Grade III climb should be. This system is extremely subjective as some climbers are much slower than others. I only ask about this as I am training for the AMGA's rock instructor course and they require a certain number of Grade III climbs on your climbing CV. Does anybody know, according to the AMGA, how long a Grade III climb is. I have heard it is 5-8 pitches but that seems subjective as well, as some pitches are much shorter than others.

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

LawHous,

Don't fret. The AMGA isn't that specific about the definition either. I took the course a number of years ago. When comparing notes with other students I found that they counted some routes as grade IV's that others counted as grade III's, vice versa, etc, etc. Just put the consensus grade that you find in the guide book or online. For example, a few years ago I saw the Yellow Spur listed as a grade III in Climbing Magazine. Around that time I had just completed Sykes Sickle up in RMNP, also listed as a grade III in the guidebook that I had.

Yellow Spur – Approach time 20 minutes – 6 short pitches – Descent time 30 minutes (back to car)?

Sykes Sickle – Approach time at least 2 hours with altitude (6 miles I think) – 7 long pitches – 3 hours (back to car)?

Given the same grade by two different sources, yet night and day in comparison. I think the biggest thing to keep in mind is to have your pre-requisite resume as complete as possible before taking the course. You’ll just have lots of good mileage under your belt and will be able to retain more information as you will have more experience to draw from. Have fun. That course is awesome!

RC

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Grade III climbs"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started