Around the corner from Romano's Arete. This is the first completed problem on the underside of Flake 1. Left side of the arete is off limits. Begin standing with a right hand high in a small layback and a left hand in a side pull. Pull onto the problem by stepping first with the left and bringing the right into a heel hook in a good 6 inch corner. Pop up with the right to a higher layback in the same seam system. Lunge with the left to the top edge(very sharp). At this point the main cliff face is only about three feet behind you but don't use it. Reach over the top to higher holds, bring your feet up and pull up and over the top.
This is two feet to the right of Romano's Arete. The route begins on the underside of Flake 1 where one sees a series of holds low and then a vertical seam high.
|Comments on Grabbin a Dragon's Tail