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Swim Fin
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96 Degrees in the Shade TR 
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Grab em in Da Biscuits S 
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Party Pooters S 
Second Sight T 
Tree Amigos S 

Grab em in Da Biscuits 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Page Views: 962
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Sep 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Look for a pair of bolted lines on the left side of a chimney on the Blazing Fin. Grab em in Da Biscuits is the left hand line. Stick to the left and follow the bolts to the chains. Crux is at a roof/bulge a little less than half way up. Lower/Rap down the face to avoid a serious pendulum.

Protection 

bolts (approx 7 or 8) and chain anchors.


Comments on Grab em in Da Biscuits Add Comment
Show which comments
By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 31, 2012

The first bolt on this line is poorly placed, at 20' of the deck. While the climbing to get there is moderate, the consequences of a fall here are far from negligible. I don't understand bolting like this; what's the point of bolting a route if you have to risk a nasty fall to get on it?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Otherwise known as "ego bolting".

P.S Maybe "ego bolting" is a bit harsh, considering the historical context, but I just think a beginner sport route should be well-protected.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 2, 2012

In this case however this route was done when you had to be able to third class 20 feet off the ground before the first bolt. This is a good example of old school sport bolting. This is why there are hundreds of "climbers" now instead of thirty or forty as there were back then. With bolts every six feet the cliffs have been opened to all but the most fearful.

Putting up routes like this these days could be called "ego bolting". However if this grade is at your limit and you do it ground up then kudos to you.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Aug 2, 2012

Its been years since I've been on this route, but I thought the route to the right of it had a lower first bolt. I thought the intent was that you start on that route, clip it's first bolt, then traverse left.

I thought both of those routes had fairly close bolts, and the natural line seemed to be to start both in the same place.

edit: I checked the comments on the route to the right, Makin' muffins, also has comments about a high first bolt, so maybe I can't remember very well.

Also, the last time I was on Party pooters (years ago), I noticed the first bolt had been chopped. Is it possible the first bolt was chopped on these as well?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Tell us what you really think Eric lol

Calling it third class is quite a stretch, though it may feel that way to you. There's a couple of 5.8 moves near the ground, then a section of very easy 5th class, then another 5.7ish move to get into position to clip the bolt. If you don't believe me, look at the comments on the other sister route from people who climb at a level where they can better tell the difference between 3rd/4th class and easy 5th class.

But regardless of your opinion of who's afraid and who's not afraid, and who's a "real" climber and who isn't, it would be nice if the new guidebook had enough information to prevent people who don't want to deal with the runout from wasting their time hiking out there.

Last time I went there, there was a Mom and her two kids who had obviously been staring at the bottom of this route for quite some time, and were just getting ready to leave when I showed up to clip the first bolt for them. After that, her son was able to practice some leading on the safer part of the route.

Not necessarily a PG-13 rating, which would be a nightmare to have to deal with for thousands of routes (that's what we have MP for), but a short note like "high first bolt" or "20 feet to first bolt".
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Sent this e-mail to Scott this morning, worth a shot anyway.

"Hey Scott,

Would you consider adding a bolt to the (shared) start of these routes?

That would make for two routes out of hundreds at Windy Point that beginners could safely practice leading on.

Hope all is well,

Christian"