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Wild Iowa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atropine S 
Bird in Hand S 
Crack to the right of Atropine T,TR 
Gotz Crack T,TR 
Hot Tamale S 
Hungry to Do S 
Kiss of the Prince S 
Peek-a-boo TR 
Soul Ignition S 
Territorial Pissings S 
Virgin Lemonade S 
Wild Iowa S 

Gotz Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: Jon Lauters on Jan 5, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Getting that stellar hand jam on the overhang of G...

Description 

Obvious crack that splits the face of Wild Iowa Wall. Sees little traffic.

Location 

The crack coming from the cave between Hot Tomale on the left, and Hungry on the right.

Protection 

Gear, If top roping, there are trees on top for anchor, or climb Hungry or Hot Tamale and use their anchors to top rope.


Photos of Gotz Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blowing the chains and taking a small whipper on a...
Blowing the chains and taking a small whipper on a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam working through the crux of Gotz Crack.
Adam working through the crux of Gotz Crack.

Comments on Gotz Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Schalk
Apr 17, 2016

This has the best jams in Iowa that I have felt. Do not TR this lead it and clip the chains on route just to the left. Protects beautifully.
By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Apr 29, 2016

Congratulations Ben. What kind of gear did you use for protecting yourself as you climbed to clip the anchors of the route to the left?
By GumbyGumbyGumby
Aug 9, 2016

Bill,

-You can start off with a small nut placed from the ground so it is "stick clipped".
-As you get to the flake a No. 1
-Directly under the over hang a full proof bomber no. 2 placement
-Right above the overhang you can place a sketchy no. 4, deep where it is constricting instead of flaring
-Middle point between over hang and roof gets you a bomber small nut placement (be careful not to lose your nut, its a very good placement)

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