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Gotta buy more stoppers, what kind?

Original Post
justgoodenough · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 41

I generally climb Yosemite/Tuolumne/Tahoe granite. I'm climbing 10+ at this point and decided maybe I should place more passive pro. The cracks are getting thin in this range:
Lazy Bum 10d

Currently I have no plans to get into aid climbing but it's not out of the question. I have a set of BD stoppers from 4-13 and a set of the alloy DMM offsets 7-11. I want to buy some smaller stuff, what do you recommend?

Outdoorgearlabs recommends DMM peenuts and DMM brass offsets.

Should I just get a set of DMM peenuts and call it a day?

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

The Metolius brass nuta are a decent size and work well they are slightly offset

Geoff Georges · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 4,649

Dmm alloy and brass offsets are the best.

Travis Spaulding · · Las Vegas, NV. · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 30

I say DMM offset brassies as well. I have a triple set of HBs, alloy and brass, and I think I have placed a stopper maybe 5 times since I got them, climbing in Red Rocks, Josh and Yose.

Lynn S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,380

Peenuts are great in my opinion.

benb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

I just updated my micro stopper set too. You may want to fiddle with a few different brands of micronuts at the gear shop before buying. Seems like different brands can have real differences in shape (I've owned the small metolius brassies, HB/DMM offset brassies, and standard BD so those are what I know best), and the smaller cracks have a lot less room for finessing something that doesn't really match up, unlike you can often do with larger nuts. Thus, depending on the route, it can be a bit of a crapshoot regardless. I've found lots of places where I can get one brand in, but not another.

That said, for granite pin scars like where you climb, I like the DMM offsets a lot. They do flare pretty radically when held up next to, say, the BD micro stoppers, which are pretty flat. Because the DMM offsets have more metal I think they are rated higher than a somewhat-similar size stopper; of course, they also may not fit into the same shape crack. Since they weigh nothing, I take along both the offsets and regular micro stoppers (I haven't used peenuts but they look to be fairly similar to the stoppers). Note the price differences as well if you're counting pennies.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

I climb around the same grade and area(s), i carry 2 sets of Dmm offsets and a set of peanuts. If it is a long route, i carry walnuts, they fit like nothing else in those sizes (just ask the follower who has to clean them!) Brassies are great for thin, but they fuse/fix easily, too.
Do you carry ball nuts? Awesome for those thin, inside out flares we find when the seams get thin. These days, i don't leave the ground without them. And yes, if you whip on one, chances are you have donated a fixed piece to the route.
My too scents.

justgoodenough · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 41

Thanks for all the feedback so far. DMM brass offsets are pricey, ha. Maybe I'll just buy the larger half of the range. I'll go check them out in person first, though.

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

DMM brass offsets. Doesn't get any better for flared/pin scarred cracks. (Just my opinion. Climb in Eldo mostly.)

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

I carry Stoppers all the way down to #1 and a set of Peenuts. I find I reach for the Peenuts first most of the time, and recommend them highly. If I know it's a pitch that wants microgear, I'll add some DMM brass offsets as well. New England granite, gneiss, schist and conglomerate.

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

DMM Peanuts are really great stoppers. They are more durable than a brass stopper, especially if your second rips them out by pulling up on the draw/sling. I have a tiny Peanut I bootied off a route in the Beartooths that always seems to be the money piece when things get real thin. It's been a couple years since I was in Yosemite, but my partner had some new Peanuts at the time and I remember them working very well there.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

MOAR OFFSETS.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

Another vote for the DMM brass offsets. I take the two larger sizes on almost every climb for free climbing. So, yeah, maybe just buy the larger sizes.

I have only used the smaller sizes for aid. I have a distinct memory of using the smallest one on the Zodiac black tower pitch at a key place.

A note on longevity: the lifespan is much longer if you always give 'em a tap with the nut tool to loosen them rather than the standard procedure of yarding up on the cable.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

another vote for DMM offset brass...i carry sizes 4,5,6 then 7 and up HBS. just took a lead fall (gunks) on the #4 and im 6'4 200lbs. its a small piece but at 7kn it is strength rating is higher than the red (5kn) or yellow (6kn) x4 just to put it into perspective. i now have complete faith in them. im interested in the peanuts after reading this thread.

Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

The largest three DMM brass offsets are the only ones you will need. Don´t buy the whole set.
I also think that the Alloy offsets are great even though they can be really hard to clean.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

the brass on the small dmm actually deformed to the rock slightly in my lead fall. luckily it was on a single pitch route and lined up easily with the rap line. cleaning it involved a nut tool and a baseball sized rock to hammer it out. i could easily see these becoming fixed gear after a fall. i think they go for around 15 bucks a nut but considering their bomberness they are well worth it. as a side note...i find these small nuts easier to call bomber than small cams. visually when you get one set well its really easy to tell, sometimes with a small cam it can be a little tough for me to evaluate all the lobes....esp if its in there deep.

crappy photo of #4 dmm offset brass nut

this photo sucks but i circled the edge where the nut actually bit into the rock and changed its shape

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Linnaeus wrote:DMM Peanuts are really great stoppers. They are more durable than a brass stopper, especially if your second rips them out by pulling up on the draw/sling.
If you don't want to spend your gas money replacing the micronuts, teach your second(s) NOT TO RIP THEM UPWARDS.

[/petpeeve]
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

+1 gunkiemike.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Gunkiemike wrote: If you don't want to spend your gas money replacing the micronuts, teach your second(s) NOT TO RIP THEM UPWARDS. [/petpeeve]
They will anyways, especially on harder climbs

And if you climb with different partners alot, thats alot of retraining

The micro offsets are especially bad for kinking of the wires if you fall on em and need to clean em without a hammer

;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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