BETA PHOTO: So Face of Gothics from Pyramid Col (photo repeate...
Gothics is a beautiful multi-faced mountain in the Great Range sitting between Armstrong and Saddleback. It is a great hike in and of itself and the cabled hiking trail up the exposed east ridge gives hikers an exciting "climb."
From the summit the rock in the area is clearly bountiful. Big Slide is visible across the valley with its bolted slab climbs. Basin and Pyramid (a side summit of Gothics) have climbing potential.
Gothics itself has climbing on at least 3 faces. The north face is the largest at nearly 1000 feet. The South Face, and the Southeast Face.
The North Face is no longer the clean slab shown in Mellors' guide. Though good adventure is still to be had.
The South face has some longer bolted lines.
With a long approach, runout slab, mandatory bushwacking, and route-finding problems, Gothics typifies the great adventure climbing in the dacks. Not for everyone, but for those willing to consider the climb as more than just the moves up the rock this is great place to explore.
Gothics lies deep within the High Peaks of the Adirondacks. It can be approached from several directions depending on which face is to be climbed. For North Face climbs approach via Johns Brooks Lodge Trail to the Obed. Make a left and go up the drainage to the base of the huge slab. Hike off down the east ridge.
For South Face routes approach either over the saddle between Basin and Gothics, or from the trail that comes up from the Ausable lakes.
Climbing Season For the High Peaks Region area.
Weather station 10.8 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Gothics
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gothics:
Featured Route For Gothics
South Face Gothics Direct 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: ... : Gothics
P1 and P2 are two of the most stunning pitches I have done in 50 years of climbing. Fantastic rock, fantastic setting. Originally rated 5.10a, a hold broke off in 2013 (after my ascents) and now the first pitch is given a 5.10d. If you rap in from the top (i.e. APPROACH 2) you could ( especially with a 70m rope, and with a few judicious quickdraws as directionals) TR the 5.10d first pitch if that's a bit much for leading. The guidebook gives it a "G"@SEM...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
BETA PHOTO: The North Face is no longer the clean slab it may ...
BETA PHOTO: The Alternate (5.3-5.4) P3 of So Face Direct. The ...
S Matz Raps the "headwall" on the So Fac...
BETA PHOTO: Near top of P1 on So Face Direct, traversing towar...
BETA PHOTO: North Face of Gothics from Big Slide.
BETA PHOTO: Next Project ??? - This is the view of Pyramid FRO...
BETA PHOTO: S Matz at START of So Face Direct