Gothics is a beautiful multi-faced mountain in the Great Range sitting between Armstrong and Saddleback. It is a great hike in and of itself and the cabled hiking trail up the exposed east ridge gives hikers an exciting "climb."
From the summit the rock in the area is clearly bountiful. Big Slide is visible across the valley with its bolted slab climbs. Basin and Pyramid (a side summit of Gothics) have climbing potential.
Gothics itself has climbing on at least 3 faces. The north face is the largest at nearly 1000 feet. The South Face, and the Southeast Face.
The North Face is no longer the clean slab shown in Mellors' guide. Though good adventure is still to be had.
The South face has some longer bolted lines.
With a long approach, runout slab, mandatory bushwacking, and route-finding problems, Gothics typifies the great adventure climbing in the dacks. Not for everyone, but for those willing to consider the climb as more than just the moves up the rock this is great place to explore.
Gothics lies deep within the High Peaks of the Adirondacks. It can be approached from several directions depending on which face is to be climbed. For North Face climbs approach via Johns Brooks Lodge Trail to the Obed. Make a left and go up the drainage to the base of the huge slab. Hike off down the east ridge.
For South Face routes approach either over the saddle between Basin and Gothics, or from the trail that comes up from the Ausable lakes.
P1 - Begins to the left of the arch and climbs to a vegetated ledge, belay from the large crack.P2 - Climb the crack and traverse right crossing the 2 black smears and head for the right side of the headwall. There is a decent crack to setup a belay about 50ft below the head wall on a small ledge if you can't reach the headwall due to rope length.P3 - Climb the headwall and climb the pocketed face to an vegetated area (alpine scrub) and set a belay.P4 - Climb the pocketed face above and left of ...[more]Browse More Classics in NY