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|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
This is a more strenuous version of the first 2 pitches of Gothic Pillar. The 2nd lead is the steepest pitch on Devil's Castle...great, exposed pitch.
Begin about 40' left of Gothic Pillar. Climb straight up 90' to a small stance (5.9). Make a short traverse right. Ascend the steep face above (5.11a) to a narrow ledge at the midway slabs. Rap here (60M)or continue up the Gothic pillar.
Bring Just Draws and runners. All fixed pro and belays.
By Allen Sanderson
Aug 5, 2007
Great first pitch - still some loose stuff here and there (like most routes on the Castle) the second pitch though very well protected is a bit scary as the rock appears to be solid but going through a series roofs with rock like this - Yikes.
Aug 18, 2013
I think both pitches on this are great. I have done it a few times, and there is only one comment on it, so I thought I would chime in. Anyway, the first pitch is really fun "solid" rock. The second pitch is the "money" pitch and is a little spooky, but adds character to the pitch. Hard move off the belay, then big jugs out a series of roofs. Not many places you get that kind of exposure around here!!! FYI we did the first two pitches of Gothic Miller, lowered down to the top of the first pitch of Gothic Pillar and did that to the top which adds another great pitch...