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Stuart Range and Vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge 
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge 
Sherpa Glacier 
South Headwall 
Stuart Glacier Couloir 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 
West Ridge 

Gorillas in the Mist 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c Easy Snow

Type:  Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: July 2009
Season: Summer - Early July to Early September
Page Views: 3,899
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Oct 29, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Pitch #3 woo hoo


P1 - 5.10+ or 5.11-

Locate obvious hand and finger crack/splitter. A small ledge exists, maybe 15-25 feet above the snow or talus. Follow splitter to ledge, mantle, move right up yellow corner/chimney, and belay.

P2 - 5.9 Move left, up hanging corner, around an arete, up another hanging corner, left around another arete, and hand traverse left to bolted belay ledge.

p3 - 5.10+

Climb face holds up and left to 4" crack and slung flake/horn near large orange roofs. Follow diagonal cracks up and right to the continuation of the big corner. Might be easier in 2 pitches.

P4 - 5.10- Head up and slightly left, past Yosemite-style V-slot and finger cracks/stemming features.

p5 - 5.10 Up and Right on obvious features, past small tree, to belay on long, narrow ledge.

p6 - 5th - Move the belay rightward, well past a large detached flake. It may give the impression that the W. Ridge or top of the wall are very near. It's not.

p7 - climb up and right, mostly easy, with one 5.8ish spot 25' off the ledge. You want to get into a clean, grey, v-slot, chimney/gulley/groove.

p8 -5.8 Step right in the top of the V-groove, and follow the long corner for 60m of awesome 5.8 cracks and corners, even a small roof. Ends on finger cracks on a slab.

p9 - A short thin-hands splitter leads to lower angle ground, and one can keep climbing endless low 5th class to the summit, rappel the wall, or descend the West Ridge/West Ridge Gully.

The complete climb of Mt. Stuart to the summit might be more likely a grade V climb, compared to routes in other states. I'd give it a "IV+ " at least, but that wasn't an option here. A competent party will likely solo or simulclimb all of the terrain from the top of pitch 9 to the summit.

Movie of the first ascent of this climb


Midway between Stuart Pass and Goat Pass, a large amphitheater/wall of rock rises up from the snow. Locate a splitter hand crack (begins as twin cracks) which is slightly right a spot below large orange overhangs, encountered on pitch #3.


2x rack of cams from fingers to #2. 1x #3 and 1x #4, one set of nuts.

Photos of Gorillas in the Mist Slideshow Add Photo
The West Face Wall (Gorillas in the Mist) is visible on the left in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: The West Face Wall (Gorillas in the Mist) is visib...
TOPO!! What a piece of art...
BETA PHOTO: TOPO!! What a piece of art...
Pitch #1
Pitch #1
Finger cracks on pitch #8
Finger cracks on pitch #8
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