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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish 
Armadillo's Delight 
Calisthenic 
Glypnod 
Gorilla My Dreams 
Grim-Ace Face 
Hi Coroner! 
High Corner 
Midnight Cowboy 
Nemesis 
Oscar and Charlie 
PR 
Revenge of the Relics 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) 
Ribs 
Ruby Saturday Direct 
Shockley's Ceiling 
Simple Ceilings 
Splashtic 
Strictly From Nowhere 
Travels With Charley 

Gorilla My Dreams 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Ants Leemets and Jim McCarthy, 1966
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Dan Allard on Apr 11, 2011
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Description 

P1: Climb the right-facing corner.

P2 goes up to the obvious left-facing blocky roof near a laurel bush, to the right, then to a large belay ledge w/cedar trees on it.

P3 is short: climb up under the tree growing out of the roof. Follow a left-facing dihedral until you get to a roof. Traverse right onto an exposed and blocky face to pass the roof.


Location 

20 feet to right of Calisthenic, at end of a low roof: start up a right facing corner.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 8, 2011

Tape and rap rings added today to top of p1. If you follow the crack as the gray Dick suggests, be prepared for dirt.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
May 9, 2011

I think what they meant to say is "webbing", though I do recall the term "tape" being used in the past, as well. Either way, the anchor is safer now.

By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 9, 2011

I was not aware they couldn't be used interchangeably. I know Sterling makes webbing called Tech Tape. I have regularly seen the two terms referenced together. To be as clear as I can, it is BlueWater 1 inch webbing.

By focus
Apr 20, 2012

We missed the tape, webbing or whatever at end of p1. We traversed right at the tree on p2 but may have gone a move or two high as this is easier than 5.7. We followed p3 according to Williams (the description above is confusing), fun little roof. All in all, a fun route and good (aka easier I thought) for an aspiring 5.5/5.6 leader.