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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Gorilla My Dreams 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Ants Leemets and Jim McCarthy, 1966
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Dan Allard on Apr 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

P1: Climb the right-facing corner.

P2 goes up to the obvious left-facing blocky roof near a laurel bush, to the right, then to a large belay ledge w/cedar trees on it.

P3 is short: climb up under the tree growing out of the roof. Follow a left-facing dihedral until you get to a roof. Traverse right onto an exposed and blocky face to pass the roof.


Location 

20 feet to right of Calisthenic, at end of a low roof: start up a right facing corner.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 8, 2011

Tape and rap rings added today to top of p1. If you follow the crack as the gray Dick suggests, be prepared for dirt.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
May 9, 2011

I think what they meant to say is "webbing", though I do recall the term "tape" being used in the past, as well. Either way, the anchor is safer now.

By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 9, 2011

I was not aware they couldn't be used interchangeably. I know Sterling makes webbing called Tech Tape. I have regularly seen the two terms referenced together. To be as clear as I can, it is BlueWater 1 inch webbing.

By focus
Apr 20, 2012

We missed the tape, webbing or whatever at end of p1. We traversed right at the tree on p2 but may have gone a move or two high as this is easier than 5.7. We followed p3 according to Williams (the description above is confusing), fun little roof. All in all, a fun route and good (aka easier I thought) for an aspiring 5.5/5.6 leader.

By Kurtz
Jun 15, 2014

I believe GMD's corner is precisely at the end of the Calisthenic roof (not the other right-facing corner 20 ft further right). The Grey Dick mentions a crack starting 5 ft off the ground, but we couldn't find it. P1 as described here is very short (35 ft?).

Linking P1 & P2 worked well. About 180 ft. total. Bring lots of gear and some long slings. There is no one correct path up the face, just look for gear and aim for the laurel bush. The blocky corner can be wet but the holds are good. And not to quibble but the trees are pines, not cedars. Didn't see any tape/webbing.

P3 starts on the GT about 35 left of the top of P2. We moved the belay so the second can see the leader pull the roof (no way it's 5.5). The move above the roof is dirty and slopey. Protect it with a small cam on the left.

P3 ends in the shrubbery (no path). Bushwhack left 30 ft to the Ribs rappel station. Watch for newbies below!

By kswissto
Jul 23, 2014

Definitely agree with Kurtz' comment above. If you go to the second corner to the right, it's dirty, and if you follow all the route beta from doing *that* corner, you're going to end up on Gaston's P2...