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Not a bad little sport climb. Sustained 5.9 and 5.10a moves on great edges. The crux is pulling the mantle at the top and clipping the chains.
Start by clipping an off route bolt just uphill of the climb. This will protect the leader from tumbling downhill if a fall occurs before the first bolt is clipped. After that its all about finding the rests and reading the moves.
This climb is to the right and up from the Sermon. Follow the base uphill until you reach a couple of platforms with sport climbs. Gorilla Cookies is the higher up of the two.
Nine quickdraws - Eight for the climb and one more for the start. Rappel from chains with one 60m rope.
May 31, 2010
I was able to pass the crux by moving from the right side of the line over to the far left side, then pulling the mantle and clipping the chains with my right hand.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Oct 8, 2012
Looks like there's a second pitch (bolted/sport) to this climb now? Anyone know what it goes at?