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This understated cliff of smooth gray limestone is home to a handfull of classic climbs, including Psychedelic, at 5.14c/d, the hardest route in the St. George area. Other worthy lines here include the legendary power line The Present, the rope-stretching Just Left of Paradise, and burly cave climbs Nintendo and Gorilla. Most of the routes here are quite short (thirty to forty feet tall), but the right side of the cliff features one of the nicest cliffs in the Utah Hills, at 60-70-feet high, and vertical-to-slightly overhanging.
Drive 8.5 miles south on HWY 91 from the Gunlock intersection, then turn left on an unmarked dirt road. Immediately cross a cattle guard, then drive 1.9 miles along the main track (rough 2WD) to a fork. The left fork is rough 4WD, heading up a wash between two cliffs facing each other. The north-facing cliff (on the right) is Gorilla Cliffs (the Snakepit is opposite).
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The Present 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a UT : Saint George : Gorilla Cliffs
This notorious line has such perfect stone and continuous movement that it's managed to attain classic status despite its diminutive stature. Originally prepared by Mike Call (presuming a more manageable 5.13- grade), he graciously gifted the line to legendary crimp master Boone Speed (hence the name). Established in 1995, this line was one of the earlier 5.14s in America, and was named one of the five best miniature sport routes in America in Matt Samet's "Get Shorty" article for Climbing Maga...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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