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Higher up on a terrific line.
Photo, R. Walling
This is the beautiful and prominent arete of the tower. It is tricky and sustained right from the start. A stick clip is a good idea if you're not solid in the grade (or even if you are). The rock is slick and somewhat polished making the small footholds tricky. Figuring out when to switch sides of the arete is important. At the 6th bolt things ease a bit leading to the spicey but easy run to the anchors. A definite must do classic.
8 quickdraws, anchors, stick clip (optional)
Eric Foltz on Gorgeous 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
this is one of the best aretes ive ever pulled
From: Oakland CA
Jan 6, 2007
.10b now? sounds right, felt like a sandbag at 10a...
Mar 26, 2007
I agree, may have even been 9 in the '90 guidebook.
Stick clip is a great idea if yer just breakin in to the grade (lead).
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 25, 2007
My favorite line in the Gorge...a very fun route indeed. The guidebook I have lists it at 5.10a which felt about right. (Hey, if a punter like me can lead it, it can't be all that hard, right?) I had good beta though--might feel like 10b if you're doing a true on-sight.
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
Oct 1, 2007
HAAAA!! Sanbdbagged? It's sustained 5.9 climbing at its finest. .10b
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
May 28, 2008
Wow, I never noticed the FA team before. Ayers, Strassman and EFR?
Jul 10, 2009
When I was there this past week it appears the last bolt to the anchors is no longer there, making a nice little 20 foot runout to the anchors. Great climb!
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Apr 17, 2011
A great climb. The difficulties are definitely in the first 30ft, but the climbing after that remains engaging. The run out to the anchors would seem long if you are feeling pumped.
|By Owen McGrath|
Apr 29, 2011
Really beautiful climb. Pretty slick down low, and then interesting as it moves back and fourth over the arrete a few times. This being at my upper limits on lead, the runout at the end (20'?) raised my pulse a bit...
Jul 26, 2012
awesome arete.....saw this one and had to do it. great climb.......classic. did a nice 11 something or other just to the right of it also that i remember being mixed pro (or i was just being a wuss). and as the front page for the gorge says here......watch those nettles. i never wear shorts and i found out what they were first time i decided to.....damn calves stinging for hours.