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Wild Horses Wall
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Devil Wears Spurs, The 
Gored By Inosine 
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Two Kinds of Justice 
Unknown 5.10a 
Wild Horses 

Gored By Inosine 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 9, 2011
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Description 

Goes up a blunt arete to the right of Two Kinds. Bouldery to the third clip. Start left hand on a large jug, go right left right up 3 small pockets to the right of the 1st bolt. Then left hand to a side pull and again to a mono (actually a two finger if you can get your fingers in it accurately). Next, cross over right hand to a large hueco and then gaston left to the upper left side of the hueco. Clip bolt two here. Then your right hand goes back to the previous left hand mono, left hand goes up to a slick, shallow 2 finger and huck for a jug out right of the 3rd bolt. V6 or 7 to here, then 5.10+ to the anchors, passing one more bolt. This is the beta, trust me. If you don't do it this way it feels WAY harder.


Location 

Right of Two Kinds of Justice. Also has a decent link up call Gored by Justice if you go left after the 2nd bolt.


Protection 

4 bolts to an anchor with 2 cold shuts.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 17, 2011

This is a great route that doesn't get the attention it deserves. Sure, it's short, but it contains a three-bolt long crux, which was long enough for me.