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Gordon's Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, late 80's
Page Views: 2,657
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Gordon's Direct

Description 

Just right of the flake on Gordon's Hangover is a seam (thin crack) that works to the chains. A reachy initial move leads to thin fingers and good feet, then right at the bolt, one must reach again. Well protected crux move.

Protection 

1 bolt on the route, some small nuts, and a couple of medium cams. Plus, whatever you will need to get to the start as it shares a lot with Gordon's Hangover.


Photos of Gordon's Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Miller gettin' an early March lap on Gordon's Direct
Greg Miller gettin' an early March lap on Gordon's...
Near the top
Near the top

Comments on Gordon's Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2014
By Scott McLeod
Mar 12, 2007

OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.

But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.
By tenesmus
Jun 19, 2007

Just did this again today and I gotta say you can sew it up really well. Super fun climbing but I don't know where its R? Scott's right about the over-beta in the description.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variation, too bad you've got to miss out on the lieback flake and upper handcrack on Gordon's to do it.
By Lizzy Scully
From: Lyons, Colorado
Sep 20, 2007

Hmm, well, I think perhaps it could have R potential if you are not dialed into placing gear. It's certainly not an 11b I'd recommend to a beginning 5.11 leader. However, I did find plenty of gear placements that I more or less felt comfortable with.

I didn't feel it was height dependent. I am short.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 30, 2008

First ascent was by Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers. Sometime in the late '80s
By Mike Stearns
Oct 1, 2008

Does anyone know if the first ascent party placed the bolt?
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Dec 19, 2008

Agreed with the "R" rating thing...It is not a REAL "R" if you have the gear dialed. It is a good idea to put it all together on TR after doing Gordon's Hangover. Then go for the redpoint send.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

How did this get an R rating? Lots of good gear. Great route with a totally well protected final crux
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2011

Agree with Tim. Bomber micronut placement right off the pillar then tricky but adequate gear throughout with good stances. The end is great, standing on a small foothold to reach way out left to a jug with the bolt a decent ways below. Fun! Not R.
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Got this one after a few TR tries and 2 lead attempts. The climbing is great, but hard to appreciate while climbing thin edges. But it's all there. Really, this route protects best with small to mid sized stoppers, maybe a cam at the top. Most cams placed would have to be small and would most likely just rip out or break the lip off the edge of the crack. Climb to the good stances and place.
By choppinBolts
Sep 11, 2014

I think it would have been cool to climb this without the bolt. Would have been heady and awesome.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 15, 2014

Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this.