Gopher Broke 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Rich Strang & Darryl Styles...also Jamie Dermon & Joel Schwartz |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Rstrang on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Jamie climbs past the crux
Gopher Broke (5.10)
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Description Climb the lower roof on the left side then move back right onto the easy slab. Continue up and eventually start to climb the rounded arête after about the 5th bolt. Climb past a few bolts & move back to the right face for a bit. Tricky climbing above the rappel station eventually takes you from the arête to the right face again. Recoup a bit on some ledgy holds and fire through the final two steep sections to the chains. Double rope rappel to the ground or do 2 rappels using the midway rappel station
Location 15 feet left of Pale Face and right of Basalt Therapy
Protection 16 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with a lowering/rappel biner
There is a rappel mid-station at the 10th bolt
Near the midway point
Gopher Broke (5.10)
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Starting some more 5.10 steep stuff near the top
G...
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By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 3, 2013
| I thought the route was trickier than Grape Ape but not quite so pumpy. I'll let the consensus votes bump it up to .10d. It felt easy with the multiple rests. The rock was a lot better than I thought it was going to be and this could turn into the standard warm-up route along with Grape Ape. However, there's a lot of dirt on the holds that the wind would not let us brush off so this route could use several days or weeks to clean up. The rock and holds are mostly real clean & solid.
Also use long slings on the first 3 bolts to keep the rope out of the small crack by the 3rd bolt. I'll have to move the 3rd bolt a bit to fix that |
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 3, 2013
| We did the FA on Ground Hog Day and when we cleaned some upper loose stuff it broke 2 of the lower route hangers!!
All fixed now - enjoy!!!
The first half of the route makes a good 10a short pitch as well and can be lowered with a single rope |
By Darryl Styles
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c
| Warms you up on the way to the roof. 5.9, to 10a , then the crux (10c) below the roof. Nice shelves to haul the roof, great climb next door to Grape Ape. Bring the draws and chalk those paws! |
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