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Gopher Broke 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Strang & Darryl Styles...also Jamie Dermon & Joel Schwartz
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: Rstrang on Feb 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Near the midway point Gopher Broke (5.10)


Climb the lower roof on the left side then move back right onto the easy slab. Continue up and eventually start to climb the rounded arĂȘte after about the 5th bolt. Climb past a few bolts & move back to the right face for a bit. Tricky climbing above the rappel station eventually takes you from the arĂȘte to the right face again. Recoup a bit on some ledgy holds and fire through the final two steep sections to the chains. Double rope rappel to the ground or do 2 rappels using the midway rappel station


15 feet left of Pale Face and right of Basalt Therapy


16 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with a lowering/rappel biner
There is a rappel mid-station at the 10th bolt

Photos of Gopher Broke Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting some more 5.10 steep stuff near the top G...
Starting some more 5.10 steep stuff near the top G...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie climbs past the crux Gopher Broke (5.10)
Jamie climbs past the crux Gopher Broke (5.10)

Comments on Gopher Broke Add Comment
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By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 3, 2013

I thought the route was trickier than Grape Ape but not quite so pumpy. I'll let the consensus votes bump it up to .10d. It felt easy with the multiple rests. The rock was a lot better than I thought it was going to be and this could turn into the standard warm-up route along with Grape Ape. However, there's a lot of dirt on the holds that the wind would not let us brush off so this route could use several days or weeks to clean up. The rock and holds are mostly real clean & solid.

Also use long slings on the first 3 bolts to keep the rope out of the small crack by the 3rd bolt. I'll have to move the 3rd bolt a bit to fix that
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 3, 2013

We did the FA on Ground Hog Day and when we cleaned some upper loose stuff it broke 2 of the lower route hangers!!
All fixed now - enjoy!!!

The first half of the route makes a good 10a short pitch as well and can be lowered with a single rope
By Darryl Styles
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Warms you up on the way to the roof. 5.9, to 10a , then the crux (10c) below the roof. Nice shelves to haul the roof, great climb next door to Grape Ape. Bring the draws and chalk those paws!
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

On 10/11/2013 a steel quick-link and aluminum carabiner were added to the Metolius rap-hanger on the mid-point anchor (left side) of this route in order to improve its orientation and equalization (the right-side anchor alread has a section of chain). Please leave these in place and/or replace as necessary!
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 19, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

With an 80m rope it is possible to lower/TR the entire route but just barely (hooray for stretch!) Tie a knot in the end of the rope.

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