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By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Jan 28, 2013
A good place for locals or anyone traveling through in the cooler months. Not a destination by any means though.
This is actually a ginormous area. The cliff band goes for miles and miles, with literally thousands of problems possible. Most problems are dead vertical technical face climbs or sharp cracks. My favorite problems are the aretes. There are also some very good roof problems where the cliff band has been undercut. The cliff band ranges from 12-25 feet high, making some problems quite highball.
The key is finding problems with flat landings. Otherwise, a tumble will leave you rolling 1,000 feet to the San Juan River.
My best recommendation for the first time visitor is not the cliff band below the visitor parking lot, as described in the area description. The landings there are not that great and the concentration of problems lower than other areas.
Instead, follow the two-track road that heads south east. Take this road for about 3/4 of a mile to the very end of the point. Here there's an easy route down through the cliff band and many problems with nice flat landings. The view is excellent and you'll also be away from the tourists. Right here at the point there are some really fantastic arete problems on immaculate, grey limestone.