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Gannett Peak
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Gannett Peak, South East Couloir 
Gooseneck Glacier Route T 
Wells Creek Approach 

Gooseneck Glacier Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Arthur Tate and Floyd Stahlnaker 1922
Page Views: 6,602
Submitted By: John Simpson on Nov 13, 2006

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Eric busting out style on the top of Gannett.

Description 

From the top of Dinwoody pass you descend down a snowfield onto Dinwoody Glacier. From the glacier head north towards the base of Gannett. There is an obvious band of snow that connects Dinwoody Glacier to Gooseneck Glacier that you need to cross to begin the steeper part of the ascent. Once you cross the snow band, begin heading up the glacier until you are at the base of the couloirs that head up the southern flank of Gannett. Take the further left of the couloirs. The crux of the route begins here. In order to ascend the couloir you must cross a bergschrund. The 'schrund has a snowbridge over it that is easy to walk over but in the later months the snowbridge melts and can become a problem. Once you cross the 'schrund the climbing is great. Continue to ascend the Couloir to a rock band that is easy Class 3 climbing. Take the rock band north to the main snow covered face of Gannett and climb the snow up to the ridge line. Take the ridgeline over to the summit!

Descend the route the same way but when we started down, (we summited around 10:00 am after a 4:00am start from Titcomb basin) the snow had no bottom to it. The sun had melted it quite a bit and while plunge stepping down the route it was very difficult to get a solid placement with your foot. If you slip and the snow conditions are like this it would be very difficult to self arrest. This is obviously a problem so we just took it slow and made it down without a problem. On the way back down Dinwoody Pass I began to glissade down the snow. I decided to leave my crampons on due to the softness of the snow and knowing that self arresting might be slightly difficult. The run out was really good so I began to glissade down and when I wanted to stop at the end I was digging in my axe for all I was worth and not slowing down very much at all. So I dug in my crampons next and I am very glad I had those on becacuse stopping would have taken a much longer time with just my boots. So anyway, just a side note to be careful with the snow conditions.
Overall this is a great ascent, really a great alpine route!

Location 

Our group of 4 started at about 4:00am from the base of Dinwoody Pass, in Titcomb Basin. After several hours of hiking we made it to the top of Gannett at about 10:00am. We descended the same route and made it back to camp around 4:00 the same afternoon.

Protection 

We didn't use a rope on this ascent due to us being relatively comfortable with the amount of exposure. We did however bring along a rope, crevasse rescue gear, and some assorted snow protection pieces (deadman, etc.). Some parties may wish to rope up for some of the sections. One last note, I know it has been done without, but crampons, helmet, and axe are a must.


Photos of Gooseneck Glacier Route Slideshow Add Photo
Final traverse to the summit of <a href='/v/gannett-peak/105882766'>Gannett Peak</a>.
Final traverse to the summit of Gannett Peak.
Heading down (South along the summit ridge) from Gannett
Heading down (South along the summit ridge) from G...
Looking down on snow slopes from above the gooseneck.
Looking down on snow slopes from above the goosene...
The final traverse from a distance
The final traverse from a distance
Hanging out just below the bergschrund at the base of the gooseneck.
Hanging out just below the bergschrund at the base...
The traverse at the top
The traverse at the top
Crossing the the bergschrund on the snowbridge in 2005.
Crossing the the bergschrund on the snowbridge in ...
The open bergschrund.
The open bergschrund.
EJ, 50' from the Summit of Gannett
EJ, 50' from the Summit of Gannett
Summit June 14 2014.
Summit June 14 2014.

Comments on Gooseneck Glacier Route Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2006

My wife and I climbed this route in late August, 1993 and the low in Pinedale the night before was 20 degrees. We started early and it was very cold. Cramponed over the pass and put the rope on for the glacier. The summit ridge was all snow, which I think is unusual. We figured on nice soft snow for our descent (since it was totally clear and windless), but the crux couloir hadn't softened at all! This slowed us down a bit, but even the glacier was still frozen solid at 2PM. We ended up wearing our crampons the whole day.

There aren't any glacier routes like this in Colorado, so I thought this was a lot of fun. Lots of people tramp across the glacier unroped, it's not clear how safe this is, it is a glacier after all.

It is shorter to approach this route from the Inkwells to the east, but hardly anybody does this as you have to get an expensive permit to go through the Indian Reservation.
By richard magill
Dec 5, 2006

Stunning country, one of the wildest places I've been. About 24 miles from trailhead to summit - way back in there. Good fishing all along the way!
By jbak
Feb 1, 2007

I did this route in august (1984). Unbelievable amounts of ice and snow everywhere. It snowed on us en route. Hard to believe it was summer in the middle of the U.S. The summit of Wyo is a fantastic place.
By Will Copeland
Dec 7, 2010

It's good to understand that NOLS frequents this route during the summers. Not a problem and they're always very friendly folk, but just something to be aware of given they come in groups of 15.
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 13, 2011

I tried this route a few years ago in September, and the Bergschrund was wide open, with no snow bridge. The same was true this year (Sept. 2011), but I was smarter this time, and climbed the S.E. Couloir. Consider this route (the SE Couloir) as a late season alternative.
By conative
Aug 10, 2012

Just got back from doing this route. I loved it. I wrote up a whole description of my trip, you can read it here.

I hope to return to explore some more of the Winds.

I included a GPX file in my report and maps. I found these difficult to find before I left. Didn't really need the GPX anyway, but the maps would have been nice.
By David Fuller
From: Logan, UT
Aug 28, 2013

Did the Gooseneck route solo as a car climb 8/27/2013 from the Elkhart Park trailhead using an ice axe and Kahtoola Microspikes. The 'schrund' was passable on an ice bridge to a fixed rope, but the rope wasn't a true climbing rope--just a consumer grade thick nylon rope like you would get at Home Depot for a light-duty rope swing. I was able to free climb this 15 foot 5.6/5.7 section both up and down rather than trust the rope too much. I'm sure the rope would have worked for quick rappel and maybe ascending with prussiks or ascenders. I was lucky the ice bridge and rope were there or I would have turned back. By far the hardest car-to-car climb I've ever done -- makes The Grand easy by comparison.
By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow

Did Summit day from the top of Bonney pass. Spent an incredible 2 calm, quiet nights up there. Fantastic. If you can manage to be up there without wind, there is nothing like it on this earth!