| Goosehead |
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on top of goosehead
Description 40-90 foot climbs with pretty good exposure. Right next to the road.
Getting There One mile past the Windy Point vista. Easy to find, looks like a goose's head.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goosehead:
Featured Route For Goosehead
Death Warmed Over 5.13a AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Goosehead
Death Warmed Over is one of the best bouldery routes on Mount Lemmon. Follow thin and rounded edges through tensiony and powerful moves. A hard finish guards the chains. The moves are unusual and very fun. A quickdraw (or even a single biner) on the last bolt blocks a crucial hold, so I would recommend leaving this bolt unclipped.Though short, the route is sustained, and there aren't any "easy" moves to speak of. The rock, while sharp, isn't as bad as it might seem from the ground, though t... [more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Mark starting on Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12...
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Dave belays John on The Bill (Aid Route)
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Dave Hein aiding 'The Bill' on Goosehead
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Solo Aiding "The Bill" on 4/17/10
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Andy working this overhanging route (Knights . . ....
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By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 12, 2007
| SQII lists a bolted 5.7 on the Phallus. I was down there today and I am pretty sure I was at the Phallus because I saw two routes that looked like 11's and shared the same start on the side facing the highway, but the slabby ridge where I thought the 7 was didn't seem to have any trace of a route on it. Is there a misprint or was it chopped... maybe it is on one of the other formations??? I didn't really see places for gear on that ridge. |
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 12, 2007
| Had the same experience there several year's ago. Could not locate any moderate on the "Phallus." |
By jbak
Jun 12, 2007
| All right ! Masters of the obscure.
If you are looking at MUSTANG RANCH on the PHALLUS, go down to the toe of the formation, then continue on around a bit to the SE side. There is a crack system leading up to the ridge. The start is fairly strenuous (5.9 ?) jamming up these cracks to gain the ridge. Then you basically solo the ridge (one nut I think) to gain the summit. I don't remember any bolts at all. A justly obscure route and not a place to take your beginner friends. |
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 14, 2007
| does anybody know about the line that goes through the roof? I've heard there is an old aid route there... |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Nov 14, 2007
| Last and only time I checked a bolt ladder of old quarter-inchers was still there. IIRC they sort of ran out before the actual top-out, or maybe I just couldn't see the last ones. Just getting to the ladder seemed like a slightly dicey traverse too? I'll check if the Steiger guide has anything on it..
You can see them as you drive by if you look closely enough (not recommended for the driver hehe) |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Nov 15, 2007
| Steiger guide says roughly: "The Bill" - 5.6 A1-A4 (depending on whether the old bolts shear off). Bolt ladder then some easy free climbing. A couple of aid moves to get to the ledge where the bolt ladder starts. |
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 17, 2007
| Thanks, sounds like a lot of fun or a bad day... |
By Dwook
Mar 1, 2010
| Just did the aid route under the bill...What an awesome bolt ladder. I would say if your bored and you want to practice some aid this is a great spot to practice. The bolts are in very good condition, all the death bolts have been replaced. Major props to whomever hand drilled these bolts...That must have been tiring. Btw, you can easily free climb the first part up to the belay ledge and you can do it in one pitch with minimal rope drag. |
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