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 ADVANCED
Mudterm Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balancing Act T 
Critical Cams T 
Even Men Out T 
Goods Are Odd T 
Lucky Nuts T 
Moody's Move T 
Mudterm T 

Goods Are Odd 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Wilson, Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 949
Submitted By: George Wilson on Nov 1, 2010

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In the 5th pitch chimney

Description 

We climbed this with a 50 meter rope.

1. Start 25' right of the crack on a nice face and trend right. Belay on a small ledge 5.5 120'

2. Continue up trending right and belay on a huge boulder. 5.6 90'

3. Move the belay to the right around the corner to the base of a wall. We unroped for this. 3rd class.

4. Start up the wall below a seam and move through the roof. The pro is there but sparse and critical. Belay on a nice ledge below a chimney. This is a really good pitch. 5.8 90'

5. Climb into and out of the chimney placing pro deep inside the chimney. There is some nice climbing here! Belay above the chimney. 5.8 90'

6. Head up an OW past a tree and set a belay under the roof on a nice ledge. 5.4 70'

7. Optional belay above the roof. Move up through the roof on soft rock, pick your pro wisely as rope drag becomes an issue. There are some bomber holds trough the roof. Continue up nice varnished face aiming for an arete. Set a belay at the base of the arete. 5.7 100'

Downclimb to rappel slings. Rap into the gully and trend left on the walk down toward two more slung trees. The gully deposits you about 100 yards left of the start.

Location 

Goods are Odd is located 200 yrds right of Lucky Nuts above a red cliff. Locate a massive crack on a varnished wall. The route starts about 25 feet to the right of the crack.

Protection 

Single rack to #4 - double the small stuff. c3's were handy! A large cam is useful but not mandatory.


Photos of Goods Are Odd Slideshow Add Photo
Beta
BETA PHOTO: Beta
coming up the 4th pitch just above the the roof.
coming up the 4th pitch just above the the roof.
Out of the chimney!
Out of the chimney!

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