The route climbs the first 20 feet (gear) of Classic Dihedral and then goes right on a large large to a short, left facing corner. Climb up the corner (gear) and then follows a line of bolts up the obvious water streak. The crux is at bolt eight but the route is fairly continous in the 9-10 grade. Classic slab climbing and one of the best routes on the wall.
Caution: a 60 meter rope WILL NOT MAKE IT TO THE GROUND FROM THE ANCHOR!
A light rack of small cams and 13 quickdraws will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
|By Derek Lawrence|
Nov 20, 2004
Bob, Where is this in relation to slippery when wet/Slippery when dry? Sounds like it shares the first part. (Too cold to go look at today)
Nov 23, 2004
Bob, does this share the anchor or any bolts with Slippery When Wet?
I do recall the line up the water streak looking very inviting...
Nov 23, 2004
Just trying to orient myself. For some reason I recalled Slippery When Wet joining the prominent water streak after jogging out to the right, and returning left, on the face. I looked at a photo on the Classic Dihedral description and noticed the top of SWW is to the right of the prominent water streak, and follows a much less pronounced streak.
I recall looking at your line from SWW, looked very aesthetic and natural, although difficult. I'm surprised it went at that "moderate" of a rating. I'm looking forward to giving it a go.
|By Jim Gloeckler|
From: Denver, Colo.
Dec 13, 2004
Bob D Do not let people tell you how to bolt your climbs! The results are what matters, and if you ask me the clips (on rap bolted routes) are more thought out than climbs that have been bolted on lead for the most part. Also, when I climbed a lot, I was always very thankful for those of you who took the time and effort to establish bolted climbs. God knows the South Platte has needed people like yourself to not only establish new climbs, but to make older ones safer by re-bolting them like "cheops". The only thing that I have noticed is that you seem to be bolting in some real accessible areas, climbing area wise, and wonder if that is causing unrest due to access issues. We will never please everyone, so why even try after awhile? You seem to be an intelligent type of person and I would rather have too many bolts put in by people like yourself than not enough by the likes of all the ground-up (shaking on hooks) type, resulting in spinners or worse!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 27, 2005
I've been climbing at this cliff since the late 70's. The same people, or clones thereof (God help us all) have been chopping routes here for a long time, regardless of how they were put up. Ditto with Squat Rocks, Ding Domes, Sphinx, and Atlantis Slab Area. These actions suggest that some people learn nothing as they get older and/or that intelligence is stifled at a certain age in some people. Also, if this is a new generation doing this, that the gene pool (look it up if you have to) is getting shallower every year.Most importantly, Bucksnort is one of the few rocks in the Platte that is on private property and hasn't been closed. This issue, if continued, could lead to that.As I can only get to certain cliffs do to conditions brought about by extreme substance abuse, and then only with a walker, I guess that I really shouldn't be too concerned. Shuffleboard is FUN-let no one tell you differently!!Name isn't registered yet, but this comes from Pete Hubbel