Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baked Buns S 
Bun in the Oven S 
Good to be a Gaper S 
Half Baked S 
High Tide S 
Laas Rocket S 
Sundance S 
Sunshine S 
Under Cooked S 

Good to be a Gaper 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: V.X. on Aug 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the longest easy route at Big Chief.

Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.

This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.

Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.

Location 

Start on Sundance, climb up and left onto the gold headwall above The Oven.

Protection 

Many draws and many long runners. 70m rope mandatory. A rope that is too short will leave you hanging in space. Make sure the ends of the rope are even!


Comments on Good to be a Gaper Add Comment
Show which comments
By WooWooWoo
Jun 8, 2014

Careful...I have a 70m and it didn't reach the ground. Fortunately, there is another anchor halfway down ("Open Project" in Marek's book) so you should be able to get off with a 60 or 70 in 2 raps.