Good Plantains 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 325 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Christian Knight |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Christian Knight on Nov 30, 2008 |
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Christian Knight pulling the 3rd pitch roof.
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Description This 3-pitch climb goes directly up the buttress pulling over bulges and steep faces. The climbing is quite varied and adventurous. The belays are bolted at good stances and the rock quality is quite good.
P1; 5.9+, 30 meters. Climb past 12 bolts to double-ring anchors at stance in a nice alcove, while making sure to runner some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.
P2; 5.8, 33 meters. Climb past 6 bolts to a steep slot where you can place a good #1 Camalot in a crack; continue up blocky terrain past 2 more bolts then traverse left to a double-ring anchor on a ledge. Slings are useful to avoid rope drag.
P3; 5.9+, 35 meters. Climb up past the first bolt to a crack that takes a #1 Camalot. Continue up over the bulge to a hanging slab and clip 2 more bolts to the right of the dihedral. Climb up to the roof placing a #4 Camalot in the dihedral to the left.
At the roof you can place a #2 Camalot or climb just a little past the roof to a bolt. Pull the roof and clip 2 more bolts then place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack. Pull over the bulging flake and clip the last 3 bolts on the sweet face, topping out on a ledge next to a bush with double-ring anchors.
Location Start on the lowest point of the green tillite rock about 10 meters left of Brain Full of Spiders. Follow the light gray hangers to the top. It is possible to rappel the route with a 70 meter rope but walking off is a much easier option.
Protection - I would recommend bringing at least 12 quickdraws, 6-8 shoulder length slings, a few extra carabiners, and at least the #1 and #4 Camalots. And as with most climbs on this buttress, bringing a helmet is a good idea.
Dave Bollschwieller above the crux.
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John Ross on the first pitch.
Photo by Andy Knigh...
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John Ross at the first pitch belay.
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BETA PHOTO: Moderate routes to the top on Bad Bananas...
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Walt belaying Tom up the second pitch of [[106...
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Tom belaying Walt as he starts up the last pitch o...
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Walt at the roof of Good Plantains.
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good plantains
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3
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4th July
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Landino
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| Comments on Good Plantains |
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Feb 23, 2009
| Nice work, Christian. Looks like simply lovely chossiness. |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 15, 2009
| This is a fun route!
The rock gets progressively better the higher you go, until a simply stellar third pitch on excellent, beautiful quartzite.
For all of you choss haters out there, however, be aware that the first pitch of this line is pretty loose. |
By Bret Crapo
From: Springville, UT
Mar 20, 2009
| "Did It!" CoreyT. Seriously, the rock gets better the higher you go. Found a bail biner at the tillite/quartzite boundary... mwah ha ha ha! Scary! |
By Alec
Apr 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| First, the good news:
-Third pitch is indeed pretty good. Belays are sweet, sometimes at nice, grassy ledges. Excellent views.
And, the bad:
-First two pitches are incredibly chossy. Test every hold. The 5.8 pitch is rather contrived as there's an easy gully 10 feet to the left. Rather inconsistently bolted (first two pitches seemed overbolted, last pitch just right) |
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