Good Moki Mojo 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Zack Gerhardt,Luke Douglas,Clark Olsen-10-11-04 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Whenever you can take the heat |
| Submitted By: | Luke Douglas on Oct 25, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The far right route. Red line
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Leave this area as you find it!
DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE
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Description The crux is pulling the blocky little roof about 30' up the first pitch. After that get ready for several hundred feet of perfect hands to fingers. On the FA the crack was guarded by a whippy tongue of rock about 70' high. It is not still there and our buddy is still alive.
Location See photo topo. Red line. Descend from slings in trees/bushes at 200' and 400'. If you are going to the ridge just down hike to the uppermost rap station. Bring some back up webbing just in case.
Protection 1 set of Camalots to #3,some extra #2's,yellow alien, and a few nuts.
Descend from sling anchors at the top of the first two pitches.Two 200 foot long raps!
BETA PHOTO: The starting flakes of Good Moki Mojo.
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BETA PHOTO: My crappy hand drawn topo.
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| Comments on Good Moki Mojo |
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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 1, 2010
| choss |
By Jamie Princo
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2011
| agreed! loose, nasty choss slot, not worth one's time or energy.
jamie |
By Aaron Ihinger
From: Ridgway,CO
Nov 25, 2011
| the two neighboring dihedral routes are much safer. This crack system, though aesthetically sublime, is both sandy and brittle. Three feet off the deck I was given fair warning when a chunk of the lie back flake came off in my hand, setting the stage for many more iffy moves to come. The upper half of the first pitch is congested with loose sandy blocks awaiting your trigger toes in order to crush your belayer. If you do bother with this route, bring new slings... the existing look old enough to be original. |
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