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Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 
Blessed Saint Yabo S 
Calling Saint Fiacre S 
Confessions of a Mask S 
Diemos S 
Eros S 
Face Dancer S 
Fallen Idol S 
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 
Kamiakin S 
MaskaBait S 
No More Heroes S 
Poagie Bait S 
Smoke Shapes S 
Travelling Menagerie, The S 
Winds of War S 

Good Luck Mr. Gorsky 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 13, 2008

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Description 

Start off a cheater stack with a big hueco and an undercling. The first few moves are a little awkward as you start with your hands reversed and have to do several crossing moves to get the correct sequence. Expect long pulls on really good pockets. It is mostly positive two and three finger pockets through the steep section. The crux is a dead point to a four finger right hand jug off a deep two finger for the right hand and a crimp side pull for the left after the 5th bolt. The angle eases up after the 7th bolt. There is a 12a redpoint crux off a left mono between bolts 9 and 10. Very sustained until the headwall, although the holds get smaller as the angle gets more towards vertical. Sequential and power endurance the whole way. Sometimes this route can be a bit wet, especially the first 2-3 bolts.

Location 

Second route from the left in the Moss Cave.

Protection 

11 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Usually has fixed draws.


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By Blake Cash
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 16, 2016

Now starts from the ground (or rather from a small rock stack). An obvious jug pocket leads into a few 2 finger pockets that take you to the spot where people originally A0'd to.

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