Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-52 
Bat's Ass 
Bloody Crack 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling 
Chaos Out of Control 
Dinkus Dog 
Fat Dog 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Good Intentions 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Mettle Detector 
Parachute Woman 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Second Coming 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Unfinished Concerto 
Windwalker 
Zodiac 
Unsorted Routes:

Good Intentions 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Buddy Price, Doc Bayne - 1977
Page Views: 2,321
Submitted By: saxfiend on May 29, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nice warmup for the other great South Face climbs, but not a casual route for the grade. Put thoughts like "this doesn't feel like 5.6" out of your mind and enjoy the friction climbing.

Starting below right-slanting crack, follow it up and right; after the crack peters out, continue straight up on mainly friction moves to the tree ledge above. If you don't feel like rapping at this point, you can move to the left end of the ledge to the start of Afterbirth (which will take you to the Gemini rap station).


Location 

Starts about 25' left of Left Up at an obvious slanting crack. Rap from rap rings at the ledge.


Protection 

Small to medium gear; tricams are handy.



Comments on Good Intentions Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 29, 2007

This didn't feel like 5.6. :-)

By Joseph Brown
From: Greenville, SC
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This is a comfortable route with good placements - just keep going right-up-right, rather than up-right-up - the placements start drying up on the left side as you get closer to the ledge.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 19, 2010

The best route on this little wall IMO; it actually stays engaging for the entire pitch. I don't know about the grade, but I saw two 4 year olds TR this thing....

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Another Great warm up! Good placements most of the way up, things get a little more spread out as you reach the top but its on easy ground. Simple way to access the ledge for TR set ups on other climbs. Fun climbing plain and simple!

If you didn't get your fix on the first pitch my partner and I decided to continue straight up, pulling the immediate roof off the ledge and left then continuing to the summit. There is good pro and the climbing is equal or lesser grade. Its not in the book but there are plenty of massive trees you can rappel off once you reach the top. I am sure someone must have climbed this line before, regardless we decided to name it "Taste of Blood"!!

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Great warm up and introduction to slab for new climbers. Gear is good. The crux move miggggght be 5.7, but it's all there. You just gotta trust your feet, they'll stick. I think 5.6 is fair.