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Cryptic Trip 
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Turkey Beard 

Good Heavens 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bob Mitchell and Bob Gillespie - 1970
Page Views: 2,524
Submitted By: Rob Rives on Sep 21, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Good Heavens
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  • Description 

    A rarely traveled Linville gem. This is a great alternative to the Mummy and Daddy on busy weekends, as long as you can deal with all the lichen on the second half of the route. The first two pitches are gold!

    P1 - Climb the very obvious dihedral to a small tree (100 ft)
    P2 - Continue up the dihedral, eventually busting around to the right of the huge roof. Gear belay above roof (100 ft)
    P3 - Climb to the next ledge, belay in trees (50 ft)
    P4 - Climb the face directly off of the ledge, then drift through the left-leaning dihedral to another large ledge (90 ft)
    P5 - Climb/scramble to the top (50-150 ft)


    Hike about five minutes down past the base of the Daddy to a very obvious, long, right-arching dihedral.


    All belays and pro are natural or gear, no bolts here!

    Photos of Good Heavens Slideshow Add Photo
    Mike Reardon following the first pitch of Good Heavens
    Mike Reardon following the first pitch of Good Hea...
    Linville bites back.  This is what one must endure to find Good Heavens!
    Linville bites back. This is what one must endure...
    Comments on Good Heavens Add Comment
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    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Nov 11, 2010

    There's a really cool variation that leads you into the heart of the cliff! Somewhere around P3 (above the roof, IIRC) head a little left toward a chimney that has a small tree growing out of it. Move into and up this chimney a short distance, then suck in your gut and dive straight back, into the cliff. (Well, don't dive - you just chimney sideways.) I've heard this called 5.8, but it's just awkward. Like most chimneys, it's secure. After a short distance (<50ft?) you'll end up in a neat room. Climb up and out the top, and wander to the top of the wall (easy climbing once you finish the squeeze).

    Have fun, and have an adventure!

    By Jacob Cioffoletti
    From: Morganton NC
    Nov 28, 2010

    This route was in an accident on 11/24/10. A climbing group of three decided to combine pitches two and three. They lost communication between the leader and the other two. Climbed it the other day in horrible 30 mph winds communication was limited and the use of radios were essential for commands.