Good Dough  5.5

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  July 1990, Jeff Edwards, Ryan Van Loon Submitted By:  Kevin Heckeler on Sep 7, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking down Good Dough from top belay. It looks ...

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Description 

The ADK Rock guide suggests using the corner, but it's grown in. Maybe in 1990 it was clean. This route is nearly a straight line. I used the wide water crack at the beginning and placed pro in the corner. This may have moderated the route a touch, but the crux is near the end anyway. Follow the crack and then follow the right facing corner. Gain the parallel cracks (crux) that take you to the top with several variations possible. There's a small tree at the top but I found using it as a backup and building an anchor with pro in the crack on the wall opposite it worked best using a nut, tricam, .5 and 1 camelots. There's a rap station 6 feet to the right off route. Would suggest walking off (climber's right) to avoid throwing rope three times to overcome trees and ledges.

Location 

Follow trail right along the Celibacy Wall, almost to its end, and along a narrow ledge for 30+ feet. At a right facing corner with a crack 3 feet to the right of it (and tree at its base).

Protection 

Variety of cams, #4 nut. This was IMO a very easy lead for the grade and would suggest it to anyone leading up to 5.5/5.6

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Good Dough from the bottom