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Gone in 60 Seconds 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Jeff Rabinowitz
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The bad slopers

Description 

Climbs a bulge via really bad holds. Sit/squat start with the two crimps at waist height. Move up R hand to a sloper/crimp, then match next to it on a sloper. Work your feet and make a hard move to a crimp (crux). Stand up on the crimps and topout.

Named for a hold that ripped off.

Location 

On the far end of the Zoo away from the trail

Protection 

Pad


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 5, 2016
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 11, 2008

FA. Jeff Rabinowitz (spelling?)
By Ladd
Administrator
Feb 14, 2008

yup, that is how Jeff spells his name.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 20, 2009

crux move is sooo frustrating.....anyone have any beta for it ?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 21, 2009
rating: V8 7B

My beta: Pull off ground and go right hand to bad crimp. Heel hook left arete, pull hips in, bring left hand up to sloper. Delicate foot move to get right foot on a higher nub close to left arete (back-step-ish). Sag a little and lunge for the high edge w/ right hand, keeping as much tension as possible so right foot doesn't cut. Swing/hop right foot up high, rock up on that foot, and top out.

This might be better for taller climbers (I'm just under 5'11").
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Dec 22, 2009

Thanks a lot I would never have thought of that beta. I was just trying to go to the crimp with my right foot high directly underneath me. When you do that rightfoot backstep to go to the crimp is the left foot still heelhooked on the left arete?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 23, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Yeah, I think I keep the heel, but it might come off when I hit the edge.
By eddysamson
Nov 10, 2014

That left heel is money for getting the left hand match on the slopey shelf. I'm not quite sure what to do after that, though. I was trying to crank down on my heel and stand up and slap the left side of the bulge on top but that didn't work and the heel only stays like 1/5 times.

Anyone know where I can find some video of this problem?
By Troy Fauteux
From: Hopkinton NH
Nov 28, 2015

This thing stumped me for a while. A very bad heal hook and hard crux move shut me down for well over an hour. Footage of this problem starts at 4:06 if you wanna see what I did.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 30, 2015

Nice video, Troy. Lots of great sends in there.

Just as a heads up, you started a couple of moves in on 'Gun Show'. It starts with the left hand to the left, next to the tree and the right hand on the left undercling. Making these moves and getting set up correctly for the dyno is definitely part of the difficulty. You're obviously strong enough to do it from the correct starting holds, but just wanted to point it out so other people don't start in the wrong place.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Hopkinton NH
Dec 7, 2015

Thanks Christian. Your Pawtuckaway Project videos inspired me to make a few of my own and I know you know the area much better than I do. That being said I went back with Ian and got another clip of gun show and got it done the right way. Adding that heel hook definitely makes the route harder and better so thanks for the heads up.
By Graham O.
Jul 5, 2016

This is a short but sweet problem perfect for trying while your friend works Hobbit Hole or Bolt on Top. It has cool movement and the holds sure aren't going anywhere.

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