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 ADVANCED
Trilogy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Along Came a Strider S 
Frodo Lives S 
Gollum's Column S 
Lord of the Slings S 
My Precious T 
Nine in Black S 
Ranger Walk T 
Return of the King S 
Shadow and Flame S 
Shards of Narsil S 
Unknown name S 
Wizardly Way S 

Gollum's Column 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Knight, Christian Knight
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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John Ross at the belay from which you can start Go...

Description 

An attention-grabbing first pitch (pitch 3, counting from the ground) with crumbly white and yellow quartzite to a bolted-anchor belay.

From the belay, climb left and up onto the south-facing aspect of the column for the start of the next pitch. Up the face on positive, sometimes nerve-wracking holds, and then around the east (right) side. From here step back onto the main face.

There are belay anchors at this point. Either stop and belay the second, or just continue up through sparse bolts and glassy shards to the top.

Location 

Left side of Trilogy Buttress; the obvious columnar prominence.

Climb either Wizardly Way or P2 of Lord of the Slings, then follow the left-most bolt line at the left side of the upper face.

Protection 

P1 5 bolts, ring anchors.
P2 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Gollum's Column Slideshow Add Photo
An airy start up P2 to gain the face of Gollum's C...
An airy start up P2 to gain the face of Gollum's C...
After climbing up and over Gollum's Column Perin c...
After climbing up and over Gollum's Column Perin c...
John Ross standing atop Gollum's Column.
John Ross standing atop Gollum's Column.

Comments on Gollum's Column Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 18, 2015

I came here looking for this info and didn't find it, so I'll leave this here: no use bringing up supplemental gear for the Column. It's protected really well and there aren't any placements anyways.

I was also wondering if you could link pitches 1 and 2, and I highly recommend not doing this, the drag would be horrendous.

The crux is really short; all in all I honestly felt the crux of Shadow and Flame was harder. While this isn't a great route, it isn't a terrible one either and I enjoyed the outing.
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