Gollum's Arch 

I don't think I'd upgrade this route. 10- seemed about right for me. Lots of face holds on the lower part. I thought the crux was where the face holds run out and you have a few wider (very deep hand jams) moves before you can start working the stem. I thought the roof protected fine - save a hand sized pieces and a 2 foot runner for the horizontal crack under it. I exited right and it was really only one move of 9.

It's a crack dudes, jam it! Still 5.10- in my book. Bring plenty of big stuff,and you can get enought pro at the 5.8 exit roof to lower off a Cadillac. S.Kimball.

Well, climbed it and loved it except for the fact I only took doubles in the big hands. Here is what you will need to place gear every 6-12 feet. (2/3)#4, 4#3, 2#2, 1#1, 1#.75 Camalots. Be sure to save one #3 for the roof. Placed some smaller Aliens before the traversing out on the face to attack the roof, which looked intimidation but turns out to be a pussy cat.

10 b/c? I don't think so. I did this route in 1987, and I found it to be 5.9+. The roof and lack of protection at it are over-rated. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice route, but no where near as hard as the author is rating it here.

Ratings are a mysterious thing. I did this route earlier this year and flailed at the crux, hanging, [grovelling] and finally lowering. The same summer I waltzed up the Nose on Sundance, Xanadu and another 10 at Eldo last weekend. If the climb is not hard 10 as described here, I just didn't get it.

So what Renny, I did this in '76, and I think the grade holds through. An excellent route and don't be afraid of the roof. If you can make it that far, you've got the guns to pull it no problem (I thought the roof was 5.8). Enjoy !

Old fart, my criticism is of the 10b/c rating given by the author, and his assessment of the difficulties and protection at the roof. Now we all know ratings are subjective. Look at it this way. This route is 10b/c, and Crack of Fear is rated 10d? No way. Both these routes are mis-rated. When you did this route in '76 you climbed it without active camming devices. Hanging around that much longer to get good pro, yes, I'd call it 10a then. As I said before, it's a nice route. I'm not trying to belittle it.

Perhaps I am a wuss or a terrible offwidth climber, but I got on this route expecting 10a, and it felt harder. I definitely would not recommend a new 10a leader get on it.

Lizzy, I totally agree.
Douglas and I went out to do this...fat...slimy..and awkward for me. I would not recommend as an "moderate" climb for anyone who has smaller hands. Either that or my technique is just piss poor!
Scottie, it's only cause you've climbed it a billion times...it reminds me of your Jamesia Jam. HARD!

The roof move (5.8) is easily protected by a #2, #3, #3.5, hell, make an anchor below it, then pull it. You already did the hard stuff.

I could see this being argued to be 5.9+, but you old guys have way better crack technique than us youngins. 5.10- is appropriate.

This climb is like a super hot valley girl-- it has outer beauty, but inner beauty is arguable. The guide says 'it's a nice line' which is like saying your girlfriend is hot, but....

I've climbed this route at least five times. It's fantastic!

5-6 cams around a #4 FR to #4 C4 would not go unplaced on the first half of the route. I am guessing that #3 Camalots could be placed nearby with some effort.

There are currently some slings at the top. A single 70m rope will get you down to an easy downclimb.

Any use for a #5 or #6 C4? I'm coming out the beginning of next month, and we plan on doing this route. Probably won't do anything else wide, so I'm not going to bring them if I don't need them. I'm not super confident at the grade, only other off-width I've done is Huston Crack in Boulder Canyon.

There is no need for the #5/6 C4. A few #4s would be handy though.

I just read that Bachar solo'd this, wow! That guy was amazing, RIP