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Gollum 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Alex on Gollum.

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Short but sweet. A stick clip is helpful as the first bolt is quite a distance off the deck. Reach up in the overhang for your first hold and campus (or you can use your feet, seen it done different ways) the first few moves. Continue up strenuous moves to the anchors.

Also a V6 bouldering start variation, according to the guidebook.

Location 

The steeply overhanging route on the front side, left of the densely gridded wall.

Protection 

3 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Gollum Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of Alex on Gollum.
Another shot of Alex on Gollum.
Working through the difficult opening moves on Gol...
Working through the difficult opening moves on Gol...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 6, 2014
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 14, 2008

This is a ten foot long boulder problem that is bolted and is one of the last climbs to do in this area.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 12, 2009

Let's be fair here. Gollum, while perhaps not the same caliber as some of the other more difficult routes on Frog Prince (can't comment, haven't been on them), is not a "10 foot boulder problem." For those not yet able to get on the neighboring 12s and 13s, this 30 foot boulder problem is pumpy and quite fun. Cruxy off the deck and pumpy to the anchors, it's a good route for the mid 5.11 grade.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 15, 2009

Jason, you gave it three stars. If I had driven over there from Tucson or down from Colorado for a long weekend and jumped on that because I saw you gave it 3 stars I would feel cheated. Not trying to be a dick just trying to put the star thing in perspective. Relative to other 3 star routes at the tower I don't think it deserves them. It is a ten foot problem with 20 feet of hanging on to the anchors that is so much easier than the start. I would not do it until I had done almost every other route in the area, which is when I did that climb. Took longer to write this than do the route. Ha Ha.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 16, 2009

Eric, Compared to routes like Grendel, Golden Stairs, and a whole host of other 5.11s on other walls, you're 100% correct that Gollum isn't as good. And certainly, I would feel cheated too if that were the only route that I had gotten on, but on Frog Prince, at the mid 11 grade, I think Gollum is a very fun route and a natural stepping stone for those progressing onto the more difficult Frog Prince routes. Put differently, I would have also felt cheated had I not gotten on the route based on the rating you gave it (shows why it's nice to see individual ratings for routes and not just the consensus grade). And you must be a stronger climber than me (or a slower typist) because I think by this time I was just getting to the 3rd bolt! =) Happy climbing!
By Eddie Brown
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is one of my favorite routes at the tower! I personally think it goes around V1 or maybe 11b. It's a long boulder problem with fun movement.

I've heard so many negative comments about the problem and don't understand why! But then again I'm more of a boulderer than a sport climber so I'm more keen on that type of movement!
By BenClimbing
Dec 10, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Why, on such a short route, is that obnoxious pile of cheater stones necessary. It seems to grow every time I go there. Perhaps ,by next year, you will be able to clip the anchors from the summit. As it is you can completely bypass the most difficult movement on the climb by starting on the pile, down grading the thing to 10+. Don't cheat yourself. Stick clip the 1st bolt if you need to and then start from the ground.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 18, 2009

BenCliming - I have seen short climbers that can't even reach the first hold! Perhaps I'm forgeting something but I remember it being pretty reachy from the ground.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Yeah, it's definitely reachy. I don't think there was a cheater stone when I did it, but I know for sure that my beta involved a "jump-start" move.
By BenClimbing
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'm 5'6" and I have no trouble starting from the ground. I can't reach the jugs that are reachable from the top of the "cheater" stones (it seems that most everyone starts from there anymore) but like I said, this skips the crux of the climb. It's only a little bit harder starting from your feet so, especially considering the short length of this bolted boulder problem, I would think people might want to start from the ground. But hey, it's a free country and there are no rules that say you have to, I just think the climb is 5.10 from there. I'm glad to have had the opportunity to split that hair. ;^)
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 24, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

It's even harder if you start sitting at the back of the wall. I think we are all skipping the crux here guys :-)
By Jilian Adel Wereb
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 6, 2014

I personally think this is a great little route. Yes it is short but man is it fun. If you are breaking into this level of climbing or even style of climbing I would recommend starting at the higher start jugs that can be reached by that pile of death rocks someone has stacked. If you can stick clip, DO THE BOTTOM!(first 3/4 of the route is the best part) Also, just because you can campus it try it again keeping your feet on, it makes for some REALLY fantastic movement. Yes bouldery, not what the area is know for but if you like this kind of movement jump on it. It is short so won't take too much of your time away from those other big beautiful routes all around you.