Strange how one of the most aesthetic routes on rock can prove to be the least aesthetic to actually climb. Goliath's Groove lives up to its name- tall, pumpy, and thrutchy, with two distinct cruxes. Begin in the flared offwidth between the famous aretes of Archangel and Ulysses. Struggle up this (or, if you are strong enough, style up it with grace and aplomb) to gain a rest. Then, enter the technical crux: an arching bridging corner with good fingerlocks and actual footholds. Strenuously gain the summit and relish the pump.
Directly above the Grand Hotel boulder, nestled in amongst the fine aretes on the highest part of the buttress.
Good fingers-to-hands gear. Sling a chockstone just above the rest.
The awkward start of Goliath's Groove (photo by Ph...
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The offwidth start can be protected by big cams - otherwise first runner is 15-20' up where crack closes down. Would be graded 5.6 at Vedauwoo!