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Unsorted Routes:

GoldShlonger 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: All. Usually shady. Brief morning sun.
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Jun 14, 2013

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Q: How does a blonde hold her liquor? A: By his ea...

Description 

There is nothing better than a mouthful of GoldShlonger. Let it touch your lips. Roll it on your tongue. Let it slide down your throat. DON'T CHOKE ON IT!

An amazing gold pillar that is harder to swallow than it looks! Start in a crack and practice your Devil's Tower handjams and fingerlocks till you get to the second bolt.

Locate a black, slopey ledge, get your feet up, and start working your way to the right. Trust me! Get yourself as far right of the bolt line as you can.

Don't stay in the crack at this point! We are getting sick of you choss monkeys from the lesser 49 states climbing our routes wrong and then getting all up in our grill for it. Spearfish Canyon is all about the panels between the cracks and the face climbing on this route is phenomenal if you just have the guts to taste it!

The moves and holds on the right hand side of the bolt line are classic to three star while the left hand side of the bolt line has two star holds and moves.

The crux is clipping the last bolt and crimping your way up steep terrain to the anchors. This is a sick-fun, sustained route guaranteed to determine if you have what it takes to hold on to your liquor.

Located on The Booze Wall 

Farthest right-hand side of the Booze Wall. This route is located on a beautiful blonde pillar of rock that has a close resemblance to a bottle of its namesake liquor.

Protection 

bring six quickdraws. Open anchors.


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