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Goldmember 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague and Jay Conway
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Another very worth while extension on Main Cliff, better for sure than the original extension to Goldbug (Goldbug Finish 5.12b). This one heads out left then up a steep crimpy wall with much shorter reaches than its neighbor to the right and a similar fun sloper mantel crux/finish.

Start by climbing Goldbug (5.10d). Clip a long draw on the anchor and traverse left to clip the first bolt on Goldfinger. Head up following the eyebolts up the steep face which is climbed for the most part on very straight forward crimps. The first crux is about halfway up the crimp section where the feet sort of aren't where you want them (kind of missing a right foot). Just paste your foot and go. "Thank god" crimps above this hard move give you a shake out and get you to the sloper finish. Once you mantel, the anchor awaits.

I found it hard to clip the 4th bolt until I was halfway through the top out, which works fine. However, a long draw may help you clip from lower down if you don't like climbing hard moves a bit above your last bolt.

Location 

Start at the anchor for Goldbug (5.10d) and head straight up the steep wall.

Protection 

From the Goldbug anchor it's 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 17, 2009

This is a very worthwhile extension. It is MUCH more straightforward than a lot of other Rumney 12's. It sort of feels like a little chunk of The Gallery at Red Rocks.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 29, 2011

In case you are confused by the description where Lee mentions Goldfinger, that was just the alternate name I was using for Goldmember.

As far as clips go, I tend to bolt hard clips as hip clips so you don't have to pull as much rope out, so if you are trying to clip too early, they may be harder.