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Goldline 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: (?) early
Season: 4
Page Views: 2,221
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Jack Beckley and Tony Yeary on 1st P of Goldline

Description 

5.6 crux is 20 ft from the ground. The rest is 5.2 or less. Others have averaged this and rated it 5.4. HISTORY: this route is a composite of work by several people including myself in 1998 when I replaced and added some bolts. The original 1/4 inch rusty bolts are still at the top. someone recently added a bolt to the crux for some reason. The original line had 80-100 ft runouts. Now the longest is about 40 feet but the climbing is 5.0 on that bit. I took the liberty of naming it Goldline in honor of the cheap nylon climbing ropes we uses in the 1970s.

Location 

Hyperion Slab right side.

Protection 

Quick draws only.


Photos of Goldline Slideshow Add Photo
At the belay of Goldline. Pic taken looking down f...
At the belay of Goldline. Pic taken looking down f...
TJ almost at the belay of the first pitch.
TJ almost at the belay of the first pitch.
Building an anchor for pitch 2 of Goldline.
Building an anchor for pitch 2 of Goldline.
Leader pondering the crux of "Goldline."
Leader pondering the crux of "Goldline."
Sketchy hardware from the P1 anchor on "Goldl...
Sketchy hardware from the P1 anchor on "Goldl...
Britt pulling through the crux.
Britt pulling through the crux.
This was the 1st bolt on P2 of "Goldline"...
This was the 1st bolt on P2 of "Goldline"...
A leader belaying from the P2 anchor on "Gold...
A leader belaying from the P2 anchor on "Gold...
The summit.
The summit.

Comments on Goldline Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 19, 2010

One of the belay bolts is a sketchy 3/8 allen key bolt w/ a homade hanger. Not the best thing to greet you after a 30ft runout.
By Spider Savage
Oct 14, 2010

Someone adding bolts to existing routes???? Okay, whatever. Goldline could certainly use a few replacements and an addition here and there. Put one in the middle of the 30 ft run-out to the first belay. Replace that first rusty bolt up the trough from the midway belay. Not much more needed though. Perhaps upgrade belay.

Much new route potential to the right of Goldline if anyone feels like drilling.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 23, 2011

The belays are all fresh, but the first bolt on the 2nd pitch should be replaced soon.
By J.J
Mar 27, 2011

Ha! I thought I was going crazy but there did in fact used to be two bolts at the crux! The second bolt might have been unnecessary but it was nice having two bolts on texas canyon rock..
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The hardware at the 1st belay (sketchy 3/8" allen key bolt w/ homemade hanger) was upgraded in January 2011. There is currently one bolt at the crux of "Goldline" and the holes where the chicken bolts were have been patched. The 1st bolt on P2 has been replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt (06-15-11). "Goldline" (5.6) P1 - 5 bolts & P2 - 5 bolts.
By George Bracksieck
Apr 27, 2015

Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-inch thick and five inches long. All of the bolts I saw on this route are merely 3/8s. Mike Draper's new routes on the other side of the rock (Lower East Side) are 1/2 X 5 inches. That's the minimum that everyone should be installing at this place, unless you can place a bolt in a dense, fine-grained cobble that is of sufficient size and is solidly embedded.
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