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The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)
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Goldline 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: (?) early
Season: 4
Page Views: 2,549
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Sketchy hardware from the P1 anchor on "Goldl...

Description 

5.6 crux is 20 ft from the ground. The rest is 5.2 or less. Others have averaged this and rated it 5.4. HISTORY: this route is a composite of work by several people including myself in 1998 when I replaced and added some bolts. The original 1/4 inch rusty bolts are still at the top. someone recently added a bolt to the crux for some reason. The original line had 80-100 ft runouts. Now the longest is about 40 feet but the climbing is 5.0 on that bit. I took the liberty of naming it Goldline in honor of the cheap nylon climbing ropes we uses in the 1970s.

Location 

Hyperion Slab right side.

Protection 

Quick draws only.


Photos of Goldline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit.
The summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Initial crux move. Feels like a much bigger stretc...
BETA PHOTO: Initial crux move. Feels like a much bigger stretc...
Rock Climbing Photo: This was the 1st bolt on P2 of "Goldline"...
This was the 1st bolt on P2 of "Goldline"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader pondering the crux of "Goldline."
Leader pondering the crux of "Goldline."
Rock Climbing Photo: Britt pulling through the crux.
Britt pulling through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: TJ almost at the belay of the first pitch.
TJ almost at the belay of the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: A leader belaying from the P2 anchor on "Gold...
A leader belaying from the P2 anchor on "Gold...
Rock Climbing Photo: Building an anchor for pitch 2 of Goldline.
Building an anchor for pitch 2 of Goldline.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the belay of Goldline. Pic taken looking down f...
At the belay of Goldline. Pic taken looking down f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack Beckley and Tony Yeary on 1st P of Goldline
Jack Beckley and Tony Yeary on 1st P of Goldline
Rock Climbing Photo: Optional triple repeal back down the face of the s...
BETA PHOTO: Optional triple repeal back down the face of the s...

Comments on Goldline Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 19, 2010

One of the belay bolts is a sketchy 3/8 allen key bolt w/ a homade hanger. Not the best thing to greet you after a 30ft runout.
By Spider Savage
Oct 14, 2010

Someone adding bolts to existing routes???? Okay, whatever. Goldline could certainly use a few replacements and an addition here and there. Put one in the middle of the 30 ft run-out to the first belay. Replace that first rusty bolt up the trough from the midway belay. Not much more needed though. Perhaps upgrade belay.

Much new route potential to the right of Goldline if anyone feels like drilling.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 23, 2011

The belays are all fresh, but the first bolt on the 2nd pitch should be replaced soon.
By J.J
Mar 27, 2011

Ha! I thought I was going crazy but there did in fact used to be two bolts at the crux! The second bolt might have been unnecessary but it was nice having two bolts on texas canyon rock..
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The hardware at the 1st belay (sketchy 3/8" allen key bolt w/ homemade hanger) was upgraded in January 2011. There is currently one bolt at the crux of "Goldline" and the holes where the chicken bolts were have been patched. The 1st bolt on P2 has been replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt (06-15-11). "Goldline" (5.6) P1 - 5 bolts & P2 - 5 bolts.
By George Bracksieck
Apr 27, 2015

Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-inch thick and five inches long. All of the bolts I saw on this route are merely 3/8s. Mike Draper's new routes on the other side of the rock (Lower East Side) are 1/2 X 5 inches. That's the minimum that everyone should be installing at this place, unless you can place a bolt in a dense, fine-grained cobble that is of sufficient size and is solidly embedded.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 1, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

George...while I can't argue with your assertion that 1/2" bolts should be the standard at Texas Canyon, the lead bolts on the Lower East Side weren't placed by Mike. The bolts that Mike placed on his "new" routes on the north side were at North Dallas 40, which lays just west of Lower East Side. As for the hardware on "Goldline," the 2nd bolt with the SMC hanger and the 3rd bolt in the hollow sounding rock were replaced with 1/2" bolts as of 01/04/16. Happy trails.

Rock Climbing Photo: Out with the old SMC, in with the Fixe.
Out with the old SMC, in with the Fixe.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 7, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The P1 anchor had a broken bolt. Apparently, folks have been trying to tighten down the 3/8" bolt because the Fixe ring was spinning and the shaft of the bolt broke. It pulled out by hand. A new 1/2" X 4" Powers 5 piece bolt was installed to replace it. May 7, 2016.

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