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Goldilocks 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Unknown FFA: James Lombard III, Blair Dixson, Sean Jones, 1998
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Osprey on Mar 6, 2010
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  • Description 

    This is a short but powerful finger tip lieback crack. Most of the moves are 5.11a with a short .12a section up high. All falls are clean and on good pro. The chains at the top are difficult to reach unless you climb high and clip them from the side. Great for running laps. Part of the strong fingers training circuit.


    Location 

    In the trees between Blotto and English Breakfast Crack.


    Protection 

    Small gear only. Just look up at the crack and you can see the size.



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    By Osprey
    From: ...
    Mar 6, 2010

    This climb is relatively new to the area and I'm surprised it wasn't established earlier. The gold granite is beautiful and great quality. A great workout! See how many laps you can run before you fall, head down to Short Circuit and do the same, then grab a beer or six.

    By Kirk L
    May 9, 2010

    What climbs might be considered part of the strong fingers training circuit?

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2010
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Not one to try when you are already pumped. Definately would be easier if you have the route wired beacuse there is no time to figure it out while climbing before getting pumped.

    By Salamanizer
    Administrator
    From: Vacaville Ca.
    Jan 24, 2011

    This route was "established" earlier, as a top rope after finishing English breakfast Crack. People have been TRing it for 30 years.