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Burner Buttress
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Goldfinch Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Anytime but the heat of summer
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: Arie on Jan 22, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The climb and area from along the pipeline trail n...

Description 

Definitely not a Bong Eater, but still a fun, short line to hit up if someone is bogarting the better lines or to beat the winter inversion. Found just uphill and west of Bong Eater and just down and west of the Burner Brothers this scrappy chunk of rock offers at least one decent line. Start in a nice nook in the scrub oak, climb through a couple of blocks to a nice stance about fifteen feet up. Lieback left up a quality crack to an offwidth with interesting holds. From here three options arise. Either continue straight up a wide crack in the corner (more liebacking), or step out right on easier terrain with cracks and face holds. Or finally crank out left on reachy, fun hand jams, on perpetually deteriorating rock (dubbed the ‘Nine Finger Exit’ 5.8…?). Despite the serial crouton nature of the rock, the jams are solid and the move out to the arête is quality. Follow the arête/slab to the top. Belay at double bolts at the head of the original corner. Walk off east or west. Or rap off webbing with quicklinks. FRA roped solo A. Leeflang 11/2008? If anyone has earlier/additional info PM me and I’ll update.


Location 

Found on perhaps the furthest west chunk of granite in LCC. Five minutes uphill and west of Bong Eater, and a short jump downhill from the main Burner Buttress. When the Bong Eater trail cuts right to the route, continue uphill on social trails. The easiest entrance is by continuing up towards Burner and then cutting back west at the elevation of the base of the Finch line through a gap in the scrub. A few large boulders directly below the line provide ample room for sun bathing and hide the lower reaches of the climb.


Protection 

Standard rack. One larger piece (#4 C3) is nice but not critical.



Photos of Goldfinch Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rolling past the initial lieback and into the widening crack.
Rolling past the initial lieback and into the wide...
Avoiding croutons while flanking out the final moves on the nine fingered exit.
Avoiding croutons while flanking out the final mov...
Comments on Goldfinch Crack Add Comment
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By Michael Buchanan
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bottom is fun and scrappy. Top is alright. Short. Not as hards as Satan's, Callitwhatyouplease, Bushwhack, or the top of Pentapitch (the 5.8 standards...). Probably as hard as Squeeze my Lemon and Crescent Crack. Probably not worth doing in its own right...