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Jeff G laybacking the crux of Golden Eye, an excel...
GoldenEye is located on the far west end of the south face of the Technicolor Wall. It is easiest to approach this route from the campsite on the valley floor as it is a long trudge across the slope from the nearest, Unnamed routes to the east. Whichever way you get there, the hike will be well worth it: a full 36+ meters of burly Canyonlands crack climbing.
The route starts out with rattly fingers, goes to finger stacks and thin hands, then a fairly long section of decent hands. Catch a rest in the wide-hands section before things go back to thin hands and finger stacks, with a 20 foot crux of steep, rattly-finger, cooler-than-Bond laybacking to the anchors. Arrive (shaking and stirred) at the perfectly positioned anchors.
Enough .5 through 3 Camalots (i.e. .75" to 3.5") to make you feel safe, emphasis on .5, .75, and #1 Camalots. Keep at least one .5 Camalot or 1.25 TechFriend in reserve for the steeeeep crux.
Golden Eye. Tony Bubb is near the anchors.
this line gets all the stars
my partner is a true friend. look at all the gear ...
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2008
Long walk, almost didn't make it! But WELL worth the hike. Incredible jamming in the middle leads to a fabulous layback to the chains! If you want a long corner, here's you're climb.
CAUTION! A 70m will not get you back to the ground, tie a knot in the end! Best to bring up your second, or make a intermediate belay at the top of the pillar (20ft off the deck). If you have a short or insecure second: lead it, get lowered to the pillar, make a belay for yourself. Then put your second on belay, and lower them to the ground after they have their fun! Then rap+downclimb yourself.
|By Mike Munger|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 23, 2008
Excellent route but if the lie back at the top is too burly you can stem to the crack on the right.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 29, 2012
Tie a knot in the 70 and down climb 5 very easy feet. Single 70 is fine but you gotta pay attention. No need for all the shenanigans described above though
|By Joel Hickok|
Sep 20, 2012
tooTALLtim: How about just bring two ropes?
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 22, 2012
70m rope worked fine for us with about 5' to spare.