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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm T 
Coyote Bait T 
Dung Fu T 
Feltonian Physics T 
Funky Dung T 
Golden Years T 
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 
Horn Dog T 
Man's Best Friend T 
Overseer T 
Pig in Heat T 
Poodles are People Too T 
Poodlesby T 
Prepackaged T 
Roadrunner, The T 
Rock Wren T 
Sea Monkeys T 
Smoke-a-Bowl T 
Such a Poodle T 
White Lightning T 

Golden Years 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon , Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Dave Evens & Marge Floyd, June 1989
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Feb 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This route is to the left of "Feltoneon Physics". Look for the bolt about fifteen feet up. After reaching the bolt, move right and up to enter the crack on "Feltoneon Physics". Continue up FP. This is an excellent route that I regret I'd not climbed before. You'll need your puny wires to protect the moves to the bolt. Further, it's a bit decomposed below the bolt so don't yank off any of those great looking holds. Be sure to finish with the overhang at the top; it's tricky but interesting. If you're a wuss, you can bypass it to the right; in which case, you'll feel dissatisfied with yourself and have many sleepless nights nagged by low self-regard.

Protection 

Standard rack including the wee wires.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 25, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A fun diversion when at Lemmingway, but three stars? Best climbed while waiting for the true three star routes.
By Gunkswest
May 3, 2016

There used to be a fixed pin or two before the bolt. These are now gone.

The best bits of crack leading up to the bolt (where the pin[s] were) is parallel-sided, and unfortunately, smaller than the smallest BD 3 cam units (grey and purple).

Heaven help you if you came off above the bolt and it failed, as the nuts leading up to the bolt likely wouldn't save you...

At the top of the vertical crack system (shared by this route and Feltonian Physics), many people go up and left, to finish on Poodlesby/Coyote Bait/et al.

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